hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
New Trillium species discovered

Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

RSS story archive

Re: shade/bog gardening

Wow, Marge! That is an incredible amount of info...gonna print it off
and study it carefully. You are the second person to mention dry wells
and I guess I must have misunderstood Kitty...it sounds like it is
actually filled to the top and grated over so small children/animals
wouldn't be a real problem?? Guess I will look into this more...thanks
and my apologies to Kitty!

Melody, IA (Z 5/4)

"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious."    
--Albert Einstein

 --- On Fri 04/23, Marge Talt < mtalt@hort.net > wrote:
From: Marge Talt [mailto: mtalt@hort.net]
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 16:34:49 -0400
Subject: Re: [CHAT] shade/bog  gardening

Well, Melody, if lilacs are growing in this area, it means
it<br>actually has decent drainage as they are not plants that
will<br>tolerate wet feet for very long.<br><br>It appears that the
major problem is that the water is going on down<br>to his neighbor's
yard...<br><br>My experience with water in really heavy downpours is
that once it<br>fills up an area, it will overflow that area and
continue on down<br>hill. This is what happens to my 'bog' garden -
really a damp garden<br>- that is built over the 6" PVC flexible pipe
that picks up water<br>from several downspouts. Once enough water has
fallen to fill all<br>available air space in the garden, water collects
on the surface of<br>the garden - basically in the lower spots there -
and then, when that<br>fills up past the lowest point of the edge, it
drains out and flows<br>down the path around the garden and on down my
hill to a drainage<br>swale that eventually ends up in a creek about 100
feet on down hill.<br><br>So, while creating an artificial 'bog' at the
end of a drain pipe is<br>perfectly possible and in normal rains will
absorb most all of the<br>water without overspill AND will keep the soil
in that garden damp<br>all year around, it will NOT handle all the water
from a really heavy<br>and/or sustained downpour. This means that water
under those circs<br>will still travel into the neighbor's
garden.<br><br>If a section of the neighbor's garden floods during heavy
rains, that<br>means to me that the grades in that garden are not
allowing water to<br>drain away easily - there has to be some depression
there that holds<br>water until it reaches the top before it can drain
out and finds a<br>way further downhill. Unless the drainage in the
neighbor's garden<br>is corrected, this will always happen in a gully
washer, particularly<br>if your friend is collecting water from his
property in one spot<br>adjoining a lower grade at the neighbor's
property...water always<br>goes downhill and will find the easiest way
to do this.<br><br>Your friend can bui

ld a dry well to collect water from his<br>downspouts. This may be more
effective in preventing flooding of his<br>neighbor's yard but, again,
in a major, sustained heavy rain, it, too<br>might overflow.<br><br>The
difference is that a drywell is filled with stones to aid in
the<br>water draining out where a bog garden is lined in plastic to keep
it<br>in:-)<br><br>If you decide to build a bog garden, you do not need
a block wall;<br>just dig a depression about 15" deep and line it with
plastic. Mine<br>took 2 sheets; I just overlapped the joint. Water will
find its way<br>out at the joint, but that's OK, enough is kept in to
keep the soil<br>moist and you do want some drainage so it doesn't get
stagnant. You<br>then need something to conceal the plastic at the edge;
I used logs<br>as I had a major quantity of them, but rocks or flagstone
would do<br>the trick. If you use plain old PVC plastic sheet (6 mil at
least)<br>you have to make sure it is not exposed to sunlight as it
degrades<br>quickly; breaks up in little bits. If it's totally covered
in soil<br>it will last a long time.<br><br>The only harm building a bog
would do the lilacs would be damage to<br>their roots when digging the
hole.<br><br>Depending on the amount of light / sun reaching the
location, there<br>are hundreds of plants that love continually moist to
wet<br>soil....candelabra primroses, carex, astilbes, rushes, Japanese
iris,<br>Siberian iris, Chelone, Veratrum, Lobelia are a few in my
'damp'<br>garden.<br><br>As much as I love my damp garden and wish it
were larger, it is not<br>exactly a low maintenance item, so if your
friend is trying to move<br>that garden into low maintenance, seems to
me he should concentrate<br>on the dry well and stopping as much
flooding of his neighbor's<br>garden as possible and not in creating a
new type of garden to<br>maintain...<br><br>If his roof drain is running
across the garden, maybe it passes a<br>spot where not much is growing
and a dry well could be dug without a<br>lot of problems - or this co

d happen fairly close to the house; far<br>enough away so water doesn't
go toward the foundation, tho' - then<br>the pipe would terminate at
that point instead of where it now does. <br>This also means that any
overflow would be absorbed more by his<br>property before it hit his
neighbor's property.<br><br>Hard to tell what size dry well would be
needed without seeing the<br>situation, but I'd imagine it would need to
be at least 3' in<br>diameter and about that deep to contain a lot of
water. This would<br>be filled with stones of varying size from gravel
to larger and the<br>pipe terminated there. The top needs some kind of
silt cloth to stop<br>it silting up fast and that could be topped with
smaller gravel and<br>planted or a grate put on it; depends on what and
where, etc. I also<br>used perforated drain pipe so that some of the
water would leak out<br>on the way down hill - just waters more land
while containing the<br>major flow. <br><br>When you concentrate water
flow, you always get a larger amount at<br>the spill end than if it
simply travels over land naturally.<br><br>Being on the side of a hill,
drainage and where water goes and what<br>it does while it's doing that
are a continual education and challenge<br>for me. Last year, with the
really heavy rains we had, rain came<br>down our drive so fast that it
dug a trench about a foot deep in the<br>driveway gravel (3/4" bluestone
that's been compacted there 14 years)<br>and pushed the gravel it dug
out down into a border from which I have<br>still to excavate all of it.
And this despite the fact that I'd<br>already dug a foot deep trench
along the edge of the drive to direct<br>the flow during heavy rain; the
water ignored that one and made<br>another to suit itself! My trench
works fine during normal rains. <br>It took half of my pea gravel walk -
down to and including the stone<br>dust under it and some of the larger
rocks I'd put under that! - down<br>the hill...gotta solve that little
problem one of these days; gettin'<br>tired of hauling

that stuff back up hill.<br><br>You really need to simply observe what
water is doing during heavy<br>downpours a while to figure out what you
need to do to divert it or<br>otherwise mitigate the force.
<br><br>Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland<br>mtalt@hort.net<br>Editor:
Gardening in
Article: Battling
Index of Articles by Category and
Suite101.com garden topics :<br>


From: Melody <mhobertm@excite.com><br>> <br>> Dear all: I need help for
a friend's yard...It is his mother's<br>house<br>> which now that she
has retired and moved south, he has<br>> "inherited"...with one giant
problem...Mom was a huge gardener and<br>he is<br>> not. So now he is
faced with the upkeep of an extensive shade<br>garden<br>> collection
that he neither knows nor really cares about, but to<br>keep his<br>>
mom happy when she visits every so often, he would like to
do<br>something<br>> with it while simplifying the work. She was really
into hostas in a<br>big<br>> way and they are everywhere. Also tons and
tons of lily of the<br>valley<br>> that are spreading like wildfire,
even where he doesn't want them<br>> (Kitty...who knew? Sorry!) So, I've
agreed to help him revamp all<br>of<br>> those things, but our biggest
problem proves to be one of<br>drainage...he<br>> has an area in his
yard to which he runs a drainage pipe for<br>rainwater<br>> from his
roof that in heavy rains, runs across his yard and floods<br>his<br>>
neighbors yard in the corner where the two meet...It's a
heavily<br>shaded<br>> area that contains mostly a beautiful collection
of lilac trees, a<br>few<br>> hosta and lily of the valley...would the
creation of a boggy area<br>there<br>> with cinder block and plastic l

er a) be enough to contain the<br>water so<br>> it doesn't flood the
neighbors and b) be damaging to the lilacs in<br>any<br>> way? Also,
what would one put in a boggy area like
hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!<br>


Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!

Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!

Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index

 © 1995-2017 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement