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RE: Workshop notes

Let me know how Euphorbia corollata does for you, Bonnie.  I have LOTS of
dry shade.

PD does a great job packing their plants.  I have not problem recommending
other people purchase from them and have done so a number of times.  I've
never been disappointed with them.

Bonnie (SW OH - zone 5) 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [mailto:owner-gardenchat@hort.net] On Behalf
Of Bonnie Holmes
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2006 1:26 PM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: Re: [CHAT] Workshop notes

Yes, it is.  It is a double blade so the clippings are smaller and don't
have to be raked.  According to people at the workshop, you can get them for
your regular mower so the only new thing you have to purchase is the blade.

Funny thing...I am finding myself very consistent about what plants attract
me...over years.  A couple of weeks ago, when the gardenchat was discussing
Plants Delight's new cover, I decided to put an order in...I went on line so
I could see the pictures better.  Today, I went through some old catalogues
to clip pictures and information about what I ordered and noticed that I had
dog eared and marked the same plants two years ago. 
Guess I really did want those plants.  Also, thought their box cute.  On the
top, they have printed "Help!  Let us out of here!  We need air, light,
water & tender loving care!!"

Oh yes, I ordered Muhlenbergia cappillaris, Gaillardia aestivalis, Agastache
'Blue Fortune', and Euphorbia corollata (Redneck Baby's Breath) for the dry
shaded part of my yard.

> [Original Message]
> From: Donna <gossiper@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Date: 8/23/2006 10:44:33 PM
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] Workshop notes
> awesome notes Bonnie!
> Very interesting. Some things I have been doing for years, others made 
> me
> Thanks so much for typing all of this.... I am saving it for future
> Going to go google 'gater blade'... not sure what that is- mulching blade?
> Donna
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Bonnie Holmes <holmesbm@usit.net>
> To: gardenchat <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 5:27:04 PM
> Subject: [CHAT] Workshop notes
> The workshop was entitled "Gardening by the Drop". The first part of 
> the workshop concentrated on facts about water, water usage, and 
> contamination. The next part discussed BMPs ("best management
> practices") to reduce runoff, erosion and contamination, including 
> some interesting formulas. The second day of the workshop concentrated 
> on horticulture practices that conserved water. Included were figures 
> on cost and consumption and lists of plants that require less water. 
> Since we are located in the South, some sessions covered types of 
> soil, and grass and plants, to consider for our soil, heat and humidity.
> As I mentioned, I plan to incorporate several of the horticulture 
> practices mentioned as I imagine most of you already do and are ahead 
> of me.
> Using rain barrels under downspouts. I have one rain barrel that has a 
> bottom hose connector. Fortunately, it is located in the middle of a 
> narrow bed of ferns, caladiums, and hostas. With a "Y" connector, I 
> can connect soaker hoses and let the rain barrel water the garden.
> Using downspouts to water gardens. Three additional gardens are 
> located near downspouts. I need to develop drains to use them to water 
> those gardens.
> Dividing the landscape into water-use zones can save time and water.
> Locate the high water-use near water sources, usually near the house, 
> followed by moderate water-use zones that require watering 
> occasionally once established, and, finally, locating low water-use 
> plantings on the perimeter (native plants, junipers, crepe myrtles, yaupon
holly, oaks).
> Put plants with deeper roots systems in the "drier" zones. I haven't 
> done this and need to work on changing the location of some of my 
> garden types.
> Consider alternatives, such as ground covers, shaded patios/decks, 
> mulched areas, drought-tolerant plants, and planters, for high impact 
> areas to reduce water needs.
> Use efficient irrigation practices such as watering only plants that 
> clearly need water, water at night or early morning, use drip tubing 
> or ooze hoses, use timers and rain sensors on your irrigation system, 
> and, use hand-held hoses.
> Water upgrade since water runs down.
> Water right before a storm to take advantage of the "membrane" principle.
> Use more shaded areas and prune to let in light to select plants.
> If you have an irrigation system, check to make sure you have the 
> correct number of heads, your nozzles are unclogged and not leaking, 
> check the pressure to make sure it is not too much or too little, use 
> a pressure regular and back flow preventer.
> Target irrigation to plants that show signs of stress.
> If you have grass, leave it 3" long to reduce evaporation.  Grass at 
> this
length is 15 degrees cooler at the roots.
> Use drip irrigation as it uses 30-50% less water than does a sprinkler
system.  Only 25% of the root area needs to be watered.
> Use tree gators to water trees.  To do this inexpensively, install a 5
gallon bucket with holes around a young tree.
> Create rain gardens by utilizing runoff where you have slopes on your 
> property. (I have this situation in several areas and plan to make 
> better use of the slopes.) Locate rain gardens at least 10 feet away 
> from foundations. In-situ soil should have high infiltration 
> rate---1"/hour and the soil filter rate of 2.5"/hour. Look for plants 
> that can tolerate wet/dry conditions. Mix natives with non-natives.
> Gutters can be piped to gardens. Rain gardens should be clear of water 
> in 3 days to avoid mosquitos. Soil mix for rain garden: 1/3 gravely 
> sand, 1/3 sandy loam, and 1/3 compost leaf or horse manure compost 
> (high organic).
> During droughts:  mulch, use grey water, don't plant thirsty annuals,
don't fertilize or prune.
> Use a "gator blade" on your mower to more efficiently create grass 
> clippings which can be left to help hold moisture and add nitrogen.
> Websites: www.xeriscape.org,
>     http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubls,
> www.greenbuilder.com/sourcebook/xeriscape.html,
> www.waterwisegardens.org/, www.utextension.edu/publications
> Roof gardens can reduce heat by 40% (Chicago study), reduce noise (5"
> green roof by 40 db), and save on roof repairs. Although this is very 
> tempting, I don't have an opportunity. Most of the cost savings are in 
> original buildings rather than retrofitting.
> Plants for slopes in sun: junipers, cotoneaster, ornamental grasses, 
> day lilies, sedums, abelia, pyracantha, St. John's Wort, thyme, 
> dianthus, virginia creeper, weeping love grass, crow vetch, carolina 
> yellow jasmine, algerian ivy (good substitute for English Ivy).
> I also have plant suggestions for drought tolerant trees, ornamental 
> plants, shrubs, vines/ground covers, annuals/perennials, and sun and 
> shade slopes if anyone is interested.
> Bonnie Zone 7/7 ETN
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