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Re: eremurus


Daryl, I'd just as soon give them away; I'd only get pennies in a garage
sale.  Besides, They are better off in the ground.  If you send me your
snail mail, I'll send you a couple on Monday.  As I said, there are no
guarantees - they did not flower this year.   But in the previous 3 years,
they looked just like those pictures.  Also, if you want to buy more, Van
Engelen carries them.

Kitty
neIN, Z5

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daryl" <pulis@mindspring.com>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 12:47 PM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] eremurus


> Kitty,
>
> Those are gorgeous. Much prettier than the ones I once grew - I'll have to
> hunt them down.
>
> I wonder if you could put them in shallow boxes of vermiculite until the
> sale day, then bag them at POS.  That way, they wouldn't need a lot of
soil
> or space.
>
> d
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "kmrsy" <kmrsy@netzero.net>
> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 10:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] eremurus
>
>
> > Rich,
> > A-Z says zones 5-8 and these did bloom well previously in my zone 5a
> garden.
> > See:
> > http://www.robsplants.com/plants/EremuCleop.php
> > for pictures.
> > Below is the info I have used when I've sold these at our bulb sale.
This
> > is followed by a more extensive, though not long, coverage by Ann
Lovejoy
> > that I use as a handout.  If you are interested, let me know and I'll
send
> > them out.
> >
> > Eremurus 'Cleopatra'
> > Foxtail Lily
> > Plant:  6 in deep, 36 in apart
> > Height:   3 - 6 feet
> > Bloom:   May / June
> > Color:   Light Orange
> >
> > Tall, graceful candles from yucca-like leaves, open up from mysterious
> > beginnings.  Fun to watch. Also known as Desert Candles, these
magnificent
> > spires of dense flowers are one of the most spectacular, early
> > summer-flowering blooms.  Cleopatra is burnt-orange with darker red
> midribs.
> >
> > Plant immediately.  Cover the spidery rootstocks with six inches of
soil.
> > They prefer rich, very well-draining soil with nice, bright sun and
> > protection from wind.  Mulch well.  Sandy soil enriched with compost or
> > leafmold is ideal.  Handle the roots with care, as they are brittle.
Dig
> a
> > wide, shallow hole and plant with the pointed bud in the center facing
up.
> > If plants become over-crowded, they may push crowns out of the soil.
Dig
> > and lift them carefully, tease apart and replant.
> >
> > Planting Eremurus by Ann Lovejoy
> >
> > The curiously shaped roots of eremurus often present a puzzle to
> first-time
> > growers, who wonder what on earth to do with what looks like a
> limp-fingered
> > starfish.  For starters, handle them with care - those fingerling roots
> are
> > easily detached.  All eremurus have a swollen central bud with radiating
> > roots, but vary somewhat by species.
> >
> > Eremurus prefer fairly shallow planting and quickly lift themselves to
the
> > soil surface if planted too deeply.  Newly planted eremurus fare best
when
> > the central bud is set just a few inches below soil level with the long
> > shoots sloping down and away.  This involves excavating a generous hole,
> one
> > at least 6 inches wider than the wheel of roots.  Dig the hole to a
depth
> of
> > about a foot.  If the garden soil is light and drains freely, you can
> simply
> > mound up a flattened hill of compost and aged manure in the center of
your
> > excavation.  Set the big roots on this mound, with the hairy crown bud
> > facing up.  If you are faced with stiff clay soil that does not drain
> > freely, make your excavation deeper and line it with two to three inches
> of
> > fine gravel.  Top this with a few inches of blended compost, aged
manure,
> > and grit, then add a small mound.  Again, center the bud atop this,
> sloping
> > the fat roots off to the sides.  Finally, surround each central bud with
a
> > wide (8 to 12 inch) circle of grit to promote quick drainage.  In both
> > cases, cover the roots with quick draining planting mixture.
> >
> > Where slugs are rampant, a topdressing of sandy grit and diatomaceous
> earth
> > protects from both excess moisture and slimy predators.  Such gritty
> > mixtures are also useful where summers are wet.  In Europe, 4 to 6 inch
> > mounds of grit are heaped over each bud as dormancy approaches (in mid
to
> > late summer).  These mounds serve multiple functions, keeping the
> slumbering
> > buds dry, warding off winter frost, discouraging slugs, and reminding
the
> > gardener that something of value is resting beneath the apparently
unused
> > space.
> >
> > If you have a hard time deciding which end is up, look closely at the
> > swollen crown bud.  Generally, one side is smoother and rounder, while
the
> > other has one or more pointed tips, rather like tulip bulbs.  The smooth
> > side produces fine feeding roots, while the pointy buds break into next
> year
> > 's bloom stalks.  The side roots can also give you a clue; in many
species
> > these roots flop out and down if you support the crown bud in your hand.
> > Bigger, stiffer side roots such as those of E. robustus won't flop, but
in
> > such plants, the central bud usually rises much higher above the roots
on
> > the bud side than on the feeder root side.
> >
> > Should you succeed so well with your eremurus that they become
> overcrowded,
> > they will begin to push themselves out of the soil.  In that case, when
> the
> > plants have finished blooming and the stems have browned off, lift the
> great
> > roots with a garden fork, beginning well away from the stalks.  As you
> > loosen the soil, you will see densely interlayered mats of roots.  Fork
> > these up whole, then tease the crowns gently apart.  It is almost
> impossible
> > to do this without losing a few root fingers in the process, but working
> > slowly allows you to see where the roots lie, which helps minimize
damage.
> > Use a big, wide-tined farmer's fork rather than a narrow border tool to
> > reduce breakages.  Cover the newly dug roots with a tarp or heel them
into
> a
> > nursery bed until their new homes are ready.           ? A.L.
> > Kitty
> > neIN, Z5
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Rich Apking" <red4@omni-tech.net>
> > To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 10:42 PM
> > Subject: RE: [CHAT] eremurus
> >
> >
> > > Hi Kitty,
> > >
> > > Is this a lily I could grow here on the North border of Z-5?  Also
what
> do
> > > they look like, the reason is I wouldn't mind if a few came this way
if
> > they
> > > could survive.  Also the discussion of Baptista; will that grow here?
> and
> > if
> > > so, which cultivar or variety would be best in my location.  Thanks in
> > > advance for your advise.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [mailto:owner-gardenchat@hort.net]On
> > > Behalf Of Chapel Ridge Wal Mart National Hearing Center
> > > Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 1:08 PM
> > > To: meditplants; gardenchat@hort.net
> > > Subject: [CHAT] eremurus
> > >
> > >
> > > My Foxtail Lilies (Eremurus x isabellinus 'Cleopatra', a Shelford
> Hybrid)
> > > did not flower this year.  It was either because they were crowded or
> too
> > > shaded, probably both.  I dug them up to put something else in,
> separated
> > > them and laid them out to cure.  What now?  I thought I might try
> selling
> > > them cheaply as is - I don't want to  pot them as they require a lot
of
> > > width, meaning a lot of soil - and since I can't be sure why they
didn't
> > > flower, I don't want to waste the soil or my space on them or ask much
> $.
> > > (sale is end of August)  But they seem healthy and very flexible after
> > > having just been dug.  I fear the roots will get more fragile as time
> > passes
> > > out of the soil.  What would you do with them?  Store in moist
> > vermiculite?
> > > Toss in the trash?  any ideas?
> > >
> > > Kitty
> > > northeast Indiana, Zone 5
>
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