hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
New Trillium species discovered

Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

RSS story archive

Any garden chemists out there?

I'm hoping for chemistry help. Any of you Master Gardeners want to comment? 
I had my vegetable garden soil tested because I've had such a problem with
blossom end rot on my tomatoes, last year probably 90% of the crop had it. I
know the conventional wisdom says this is caused by lack of calcium due to
uneven watering, but my entire garden is on an automatic drip system and I
have a hard time believing that's uneven (although it gets very hot here you
know, so maybe the plants can't take up enough water during heat waves?). 
Anyway the results of the test:

Ph is 6.5. CEC is 13.9. ECe is 3.6 with a bar next to it indicating
"increasing salinity"
Organic Matter - 6.2% (high)
Nitrogen ppm - 66 (very high)
Phosphorus Weak Bray ppm - 165 (very high)
Phosphorus NAHC03P ppm - 246 (very high)
Potassium ppm - 655 (high)
Magnesium ppm - 247 (medium - towards the low end of medium)
Calcium ppm - 1776 (medium - lower medium than the magnesium)
Sodium ppm - 147 (very low)
Sulfur ppm - 147 (very high)
Zinc ppm - 29.3 (very high)

I've read the booklet a number of times but a lot of this chemistry isn't
sinking in. Based on what I understand right now, I should grow some heavy
feeding crops to bring down the nitrogen, and while the sodium is low, the
ECe - which I gather is other kinds of salts (huh?) - is high. The booklet
says "consult a specialist" about that. Everything else says "take no
Web sites I found about BER say to avoid "ammoniacal nitrogen".  We use a
lot of spoiled hay and sheep manure in the vegetable garden - would that be
a source of ammoniacal nitrogen?  
BTW, this year - while I still have some tomatoes affected by BER - it is
not nearly as bad as last. 


To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the

Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index

 © 1995-2017 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement