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Re: Tomatoes!


I always thought it had something to do with too much water but I found this online.
Tricia
Blossom-End Rot of Tomatoes
Revised 1/01 -- Author Reviewed 1/01 HIL-28-D

Douglas C. Sanders
Extension Horticultural Specialist
Department of Horticultural Science
College of Agriculture & Life Sciences
North Carolina State University


Blossom-end rot of tomatoes is a physiological disorder caused by a lack of sufficient calcium in the blossom end of the fruit. This disorder results in the decay of tomato fruits on their blossom end. Dry brown or tan areas the size of a dime, that grow to the size of a half dollar, characterize this disorder. This disorder is usually most severe following extremes in soil moisture (either too dry or too wet).

To reduce blossom-end rot in tomato, implement the following steps:

Lime tomato soils to pH 6.5 to 6.7 -- Home gardens not limed in the past 2 to 3 years will need 2 cups of lime for each plant. The lime should be worked into the soil 12 inches deep. To determine the exact amount of lime, send a soil sample to the NCDA&CS Agronomic Division, 4300 Reedy Creek Road, Raleigh, N. C. 27607-6465 for analysis and recommendations. Fertilize properly -- Applying too much fertilizer at one time can result in blossom-end rot. Following soil test recommendations is the best way to insure proper fertilization. For home gardens not soil tested, apply 5 pints of 8-8-8 per 100 ft of row and work it thoroughly into the top 8 inches of soil. Mulch plants -- Use straw, pine straw, decomposed sawdust, ground decomposed corn cobs, plastic, or newspapers. Mulches conserve moisture and reduce blossom-end rot. In extreme drought, plastic may increase blossom-end rot if plants are not watered. Irrigate when necessary -- Tomato plants require about 1.5 inches of water per week during fruiting. This amount of water should be supplied by rain or irrigation. Extreme fluctuations in soil moisture result in a greater incidence of blossom-end rot. Spray calcium -- The plants may be sprayed with a calcium solution at the rate of 4 lb of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride per 100 gal of water (or 4 level Tbs per gal of water). This spray should be applied 2 to 3 times a week, beginning at the time the second fruit clusters bloom. These materials can be mixed with the spray that is used for control of foliar diseases. Chelated calcium solutions also provide an excellent source of calcium. When using these chelates, follow label directions. Several foliar spray materials containing calcium are available and all work well for tomatoes.



----- Original Message ----- From: "Theresa W" <tchessie1@sbcglobal.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: [CHAT] Tomatoes!


My tomatoes in the garden are all doing fine, but I planted one in a pot that has major blossom end rot. Can someone remind me what the fix for this is??

Theresa

Zemuly Sanders wrote:
Me, too! My "Sweet 100s" are doing great in their medium pot. The armadillo finally gave up when s/he realized the pot was just too tall to get into.
zem
----- Original Message ----- From: "Lynda Young" <lyoung@grindertaber.com>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [CHAT] Tomatoes!


Oh, Cyndi, can I come live in your tomato patch?

Lynda
Zone 7 - West Tn

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [mailto:owner-gardenchat@hort.net] On Behalf
Of Johnson Cyndi D Civ 95 CG/SCSRT
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 9:59 AM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: [CHAT] Tomatoes!

Tomatoes are ripening, oh happy day. Actually I picked my first few last
week but forgot to mention it. Got five more last night. They're not
dead ripe, but I still have some critters out there and so I'm picking
them a bit earlier than I normally would so nothing samples them.
I am seeing a bit of blossom end rot on one Arkansas Traveller plant,
but nothing anywhere else (at least not yet). This is a complete
turnaround from last year, I must have done something right - I think I
set the watering times longer, like 15 minutes, earlier in the season
but I am not sure about that, I don't keep records of watering times. I
know I did not put anything in the soil this year - usually I will add
some sulphur because our pH tends to be high but I was in a rush this
time.  Since I don't know exactly what I did I can only hope to repeat
it next year.
I'm very happy with the Sun King plants, they have huge tomatoes
ripening earlier than the rest and the plants look great. I'm liking
Sioux as well, I have grown it before and it usually does pretty well.
The plants of Rose look good but there are not as many fruits as the
first two, still what's there is nice and big. Porter Improved and
Arkansas Traveller have some fruit but the plants don't look as good,
some leaf curl and burned edges to the leaves. Grape, the cherry tomato
that's so popular in stores, is a waste of space - sparse foliage and
very little fruit. It may not like my climate. The paste tomatoes aren't
ready yet - I'm growing Saucy, LaRoma II, Super Italian Paste, and one I
can't remember. I have lost one Saucy to something or other, I thought
it was curly top virus, but it didn't quite behave like that.
Anyway I'm quite pleased with them right now. We'll see how things do as
the season progresses.

Cyndi

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  • Follow-Ups:
  • References:
    • Tomatoes!
      • From: "Johnson Cyndi D Civ 95 CG/SCSRT" <cyndi.johnson@edwards.af.mil>
    • RE: Tomatoes!
      • From: "Lynda Young" <lyoung@grindertaber.com>
    • Re: Tomatoes!
      • From: "Zemuly Sanders" <zemuly@comcast.net>
    • Re: Tomatoes!
      • From: Theresa W <tchessie1@sbcglobal.net>

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