hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
New Trillium species discovered

Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

RSS story archive

Re: Re: Re: TClothier site

Well, Kitty, if I had gotten farther down in the backed up mail
(being gone 2 days really loads the old inbox), I'd have seen that
Donna found the URL.

What I'd do is sow the seed now so it doesn't dry out (or if already
dry, doesn't get any drier).  It will just sit there as it would in
nature and wait for the right temperature to germinate (once sown,
needs to not be allowed to dry out).  If you have a way to take care
of the seedlings, should they germinate in January, you can go ahead
and sow and put in the fridge.  But, from what I've read, the key to
some frit seed is that you have got to sow fresh or it simply won't
germinate as it has a very short life span - meleagris is one of
those, I know. Some of them benefit from oscillating temperatures,
which is why they seem to germinate best if the pots are left outside
over winter - it is really a pain to try to recreate this inside.  My
take on leaving pots of seed outside over winter is that they need to
be sown and placed outside while temperatures are still warm so they
can cool down with the weather.  If sown so they start imbibing
moisture and swelling, for instance, in January inside where they are
warm and then put straight out into freezing temperatures, they can
rupture. (I do not have any scientific testing of this theory; just
observation of what's happened when I've done that and had no
germination versus having sown in autumn or late summer and left pots
out - so I could be out of my mind here).

Seems to me that the genus Fritillaria has more variation in
germination requirements than most any I've run into.

Just took a look at my file on seeds and found a post from Kristl
Walek (Garden North Seeds), saved in April, so it probably was posted
around that month, saying that she'd had about 100% germination from
a list of frits sown and left outside over winter, including
radeanna, FWIW.

Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
Editor:  Gardening in Shade
Current Article: Wild, Wonderful Aroids Part 5 - Pinellia
Complete Index of Articles by Category and Date
All Suite101.com garden topics :

> From: Kitty <kmrsy@earthlink.net>
> Yes Donna, that's what we were looking for.  Chris ought to create
a link for it on hort.net.
> Interestingly, I found my Fritillaria radeanna listed:
> "Fritillaria imperialis, lanceolata, meleagris, michailovskyi,
> pallidiflora, persica, pontica, pudica, pyrenaica, raddeana, and
> tubiformis , Sow at Max. 5B:C (41B:F), germination irregular, often
> several months"
> But...Most, including Deno say seed germs best if sown immediately.
> Frit book I just got said the seeds will be ready something like
> midsummer. How am I going to sow the seeds at a max of 41 F? In the
> fridge? Probably, I guess. Still it's wonderful to find specific
> information on this species, since some frits respond one way and
> another way.

To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the

Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index

 © 1995-2017 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement