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RE: tomato woes


Ok- I'm game.  I'm going to try to solarize next year, plant in a different
spot and solarize again the year after that and try the tomatos again.
But-  I can't plant where peppers have been??  Ok- that's kind of
impossible, my garden is only so big and with trying to rotate crops,
eventually the tomatos will have to go where the peppers were.

Theresa

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [mailto:owner-gardenchat@hort.net]On
Behalf Of Donna
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 5:09 PM
To: gardenchat@hort.net
Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes


Interesting you should bring that up JRF....

Happened to get my Chicagoland Gardening Magazine today and while I
haven't read the entire issue, just browsing thru, there is a short
piece on Tomato Wilt. It is in the ask our expert section on page 6-
July/Aug issue. I copied the entire reply, although some information has
already been discussed earlier. I wish they would have listed some
varieties that are resistant, rather than just making the comment...
They also provided pictures of each type of wilt commented on.

And I quote:
----
Dying leaves are the symptom of fusarium or verticillium wilt, caused by
soil-borne fungi. Look for plants that are labeled as resistant to these
diseases.

To control wilt, practice good sanitation. Remove a plant with leaves
that have turned brown, and do not compost it. Do not put tomatoes in
the same place each year, or else you will need to "solarize" the soil
before planting. The process of solarization entails covering over the
soil with a heave black plastic for 4-6 weeks before planting. The heat
buildup from the sun will the kill fungi in the soil. The soil must be
moist and the plastic heavy enough to keep in the heat. If the spring is
cool, it maybe necessary to keep the soil covered longer. Avoid growing
tomatoes in soil where potatoes, eggplant, and peppers have been
growing, says Ed C. Smith, author of the Vegetable Gardener's Bible,
Storey Books.

----

> And you're sure it's wilt ? You have no root nematodes in CA as they
do in
> Florida ? I guess you can't get methyl bromide any more, that would
cure
> it
> for sure. Does anybody know if solarization works against bacterial
rots ?
> I suspect it would, and that might be your best bet.
> -jrf
> --
> Jim Fisher
> Vienna, Virginia USA
> 38.9 N 77.2 W
> USDA Zone 7
> Max. 105 F [40 C], Min. 5 F [-15 C]
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