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Re: Zumbarizing

  • Subject: Re: Zumbarizing
  • From: "Bill Meyer" njhosta@hotmail.com
  • Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 11:24:33 -0400

Hi Marie,
        I'm not one to encourage misuse of chemicals of any kind, but the
reasons Benlate is being taken off the market have to do with use in
agriculture. It is used to drench whole fields several times a year in some
places. One of the lawsuits concerned shrimp farms in the path of runoff
from fields where hundreds of pounds are used. Other ones focused mainly on
it's still unproven toxicity to some plants, thereby making it a problem for
general use. Another concern was that using large amounts over large areas
was causing an increase in resistant fungi. All the problems cited were
concerning the use of multiple drenchings with large amounts in professional
use. It is considered largely harmless to people and mammals by skin
contact, and you'd have to ingest a tremendous amount to poison yourself
that way.
         What I recommend is using a small amount directly on the rhizome
and then replanting. It will not spread through the soil, but may cause
problems for the occasional earthworm moving directly through the root
system. It's use over here is fully legal in all states at this time, and it
is being withdrawn from the market voluntarily by DuPont because of the
lawsuits. DuPont says it is perfectly safe if used as labeled and the
problems come from misuse (or overuse) of the product. I don't know who's
telling the truth on that, but with millions of dollars involved neither
side may be. It's as safe as anything, except maybe to the plants that are
sensitive to the byproducts of it's breakdown. Hostas don't seem to be one
of those.

...........Bill Meyer



> Hi Bill! I have to use Benlate now, too,because of crown rot spreading due
> to the very wet conditions we had here in Europe recently  (although I
object
> to using too many chemicals in the garden). But itīs not that harmless!
Itīs
> very toxic for ground dwelling creatures, especially for earthworms. I
> understand that itīs being taken off the market, because itīs suspected to
be
> mutagenic. Thereīs a lot of information about this on the www....
> About all these propagation methods: Is there any step by step (with
photos)
> guide on how to do them available anywhere?
> BFN, Marie
>
>
>
>
> > Hi Kirsten,
> >         Probably the best time to do any of the tricks with buds is just
> > as
> > the plants are going dormant for the winter. This seems to be the most
> > successful timing. You could wait until the leaves begin to yellow, but
> > it's
> > OK to just do it a couple weeks before that. You want to do it when
> > everything is cooling down enough that they won't sprout into growth
> > immediately and be destroyed by frost. Benlate is a fungicide that is
> > pretty
> > safe for humans but still very effective against fungus. I like it
because
> > it works very well on hostas, even though it may be a problem with some
> > other plants, and because getting some on your skin while using it is
not
> > dangerous. Some other fungicides can cause problems by skin contact and
> > they
> > are really not any more effective than Benlate on hostas. I've never
lost
> > a
> > hosta to rot when I used Benlate on the cuts or other wounds to the
> > rhizome.
> > Simply dusting or rubbing a little on the cut is all you need to do, and
> > this will have virtually no environmental impact. Unfortunately it is
> > being
> > pulled from the market for other reasons, so you should get some quick
if
> > you can. Other fungicides are good too, and since they all seem pretty
> > effective, I'd stick to those that are safer to use.
> >         What do you nursery folks like for fungicides?
> >
> > ........Bill Meyer
> >
> >
> > > Hi guys. Earlier this summer I was happy to see that I had a
hyacinthina
> > > which had two leaves with a wide, white strip on one side between the
> > veins.
> > > I watched it closely, babied it...but new leaves came out green. So 2
or
> > 3
> > > weeks ago when I joined this group, I have been looking for a way to
> > isolate
> > > this little guy in the hopes that next year he might show me some more
> > > stripes. I am thrilled to see what you are talking about here. I am
> > going
> > to
> > > give it a try. But a couple of questions?...What zone are you in that
> > you
> > do
> > > this in Oct? You obviously still have leaves on the plant, but how
> > dormant
> > > is it in Oct? I live in southwest Missouri where the weather does at
it
> > > pleases. And my other question is what exactly is Benlate? What is its
> > > purpose? Thanks already as you have given me the ideas to totally
> > exasperate
> > > my family as they think I am Hosta-obsessed already. Wait till they
see
> > me
> > > next year!
> >
> > > >Hi Ran,
> > > >        I have another method that has worked for me. If you have a
> > > >division with a sported leaf or two, you would want the bud under
that
> > leaf
> > > >to sprout. What I do with these is wait until early Oct. and remove
all
> > the
> > > >leaves whose buds I don't want to sprout and then scrape off the
buds.
> > I
> > > >leave the leaves I want buds from alone. Before planting again, I
dust
> > the
> > > >plant with a little Benlate. It's pretty much guaranteed that the one
> > you
> > > >want will come up in the spring. You will get to keep the size that
> > way,
> > > >but it doesn't isolate as well as your method does.
> > > >
> > > >........Bill Meyer
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >   Bob
> > > >   There are four methods used for crown divison/multiplication.
They
> > are
> > > >Bud Cuttings (Alex Summers method)  Rossizing, ( the method
introduced
> > by
> > > >Henery Ross)  Zumberizing, (Bill Zumbar)  and Bud Isolation , ( Ran
> > > >Lydell's method.)  All these "processes" are done in late
summer/early
> > > >fall.  Bud Cuttings - Individual buds , from the basel area are
> > carefully
> > > >removed.  Ideally each has a bit of root.  These can be planted in a
> > high
> > > >humus soil.  They will come up  in spring looking a bit like Tc
plants.
> > > >Rossizing - Carefull cuts are made through the entire basel area,
> > starting
> > > >where the leaves connect.  A sharp , knife is pushed through the base
&
> > out
> > > >the opposit side, and then pulled down ward to the root area.  On
> > larger
> > > >plants several cuts can be made.  These need to be done carefully so
> > not
> > to
> > > >damage buds on ether side.  Zumberizing - Cuts about 1/4 inch deep
are
> > made
> > > >between the buds.  The knife is pulled ( maintaning the 1/4 inch
depth)
> > > >down through the base to the root area.  Bud Isolation - An arch
shaped
> > cut
> > > >is made over and down between each bud.  This is continued in the
same
> > > >manner as with Zumberizing.  In all these methods, a dusting of all
> > fresh
> > > >cuts with a fungiside is necessary.  I believe Bud Isolation works
> > best,
> > as
> > > >it allows the bud to be totally "isolated"  but still "feed" from
> > common
> > > >root system.  The resulting plants will come apart easly in spring
and
> > will
> > > >be large and devlope quickly.  This process also allow one to isolate
> > > >sports with better cances of not having them abort.
> > > >   Thanks
> > > >   Ran
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
> > >
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> > >
> >
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> >
>
> --
> Marie
>
> GMX - Die Kommunikationsplattform im Internet.
> http://www.gmx.net
>
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