hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive

Re: Great Expectations

  • Subject: Re: Great Expectations
  • From: "Dan & Lu Nelson" <Hostanut@Bellsouth.net>
  • Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 10:02:42 -0400

Hey Butch,

What you say about mulch and compost are true. I've been doing tree care work
for 20 years and have lots of mulch on hand. I let it age a couple of months
and turn it with a bobcat before using usually. There is no doubt that it
improves all types of soil. I find it is particularly useful for woody plants
and trees. A big problem with hostas is southern blight and mulch seems to
make SB more of a problem, but no problem for woodies.

I have grown hostas with great success in 100% composted wood chip mulch. It
does take 3 years or so for the wood chips to bread down for potting soil

All mulch is not created equal. In the Journal of Arboriculture several years
ago there was research showing the nutrient content of various mulches. Bark
and solid wood mulch was lowest in nutrients. The highest nutrient content was
found in chipped limbs that were in full leaf, which is what I frequently have
from my work. Chipped limb trimming in full leaf will heat up instantly when
dumped in a pile which shows they are somewhat near the ideal 30/1 carbon to
nitrogen ratio for composting. Anything less that 30\1 C/N ration just takes
longer to break down but the end result is still the same.

Some types of wood fiber to avoid...........grindings from large tub grinders
that grind up stumps along with hole trees. Lots of soil disease problem and
sour mulch results from these mulches. Tub grinding of stumps also results in
a mulch that compacts a lot and often forms an air tight barrier....which is a
very bad property for a mulch. Unfortunately this kind of wood waste is often
used commercially because it is cheaply obtained. I've also found that tree
company type tow behind stump grinders make a mulch that is not very good. If
put down lightly it works fine but if over 1 inch deep it can cause a problem
with air exchange.

Dan and Lu

To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@hort.net with the

 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index