hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive

Re: What makes the difference?

  • Subject: Re: What makes the difference?
  • From: "Bill Meyer" <njhosta@hotmail.com>
  • Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 16:51:19 -0400

----- Original Message -----
From: "Margaret Streckenbach" <margarets@westside.com>
To: <hosta-open@mallorn.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 2:29 PM
Subject: RE: What makes the difference?

> Joe:
> That is one of the main reasons why I buy younger plants, if their price
> reflected by their age.  I like seeing it go through its childhood and
> teenage years.  There really is a sense of pride felt when looking at a
> grown mature plant that you have grown from infancy.
> I must also add, that the main reason for buying smaller plants is the
> that I have a very small yard.  So, having the young immature plants
> me to feed my addiction more.  I am planning to move to where I have some
> more space in the next few years.
> Chick:
> Thanks for your input on the growth rate of younger plants.  That makes
> complete sense.  I have been growing Orchids from TC for a decade or so,
> they behave the same way, it is funny how I take up a new plant, and for
> some reason think I need to start from scratch again. I have a feeling
> it may have something to do with my need for making things more difficult
> than they really are.
> Everyone's input has been helpful to me.  I hope Alttara has had her
> question answered also.  I seem to have hijacked her post.
> Margaret
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-hosta-open@mallorn.com
> [mailto:owner-hosta-open@mallorn.com]On Behalf Of halinar@open.org
> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:52 AM
> To: hosta-open@mallorn.com
> Subject: Re: What makes the difference?
> Chick:
> >but frankly I disagree with Joe.  I'd rather have the big, beat up
> >plant than the small pretty one.
> I'll also take the big plant if the price is the same as for a small
> plant.  Given the choice of buying a large hosta for $20 and a smaller
> sized one of the same variety for $5, I'll take the smaller one and
> with the $15 I saved I'll buy three other smaller plants for $5.  Then
> in two years time I'll have four nice large hostas rather then one
> nice large hosta.  To me watching the plant grow and mature is just as
> enjoyable as the instant satisfaction of buying the larger plant.  For
> example, many years ago my neighbor had some small maple trees planted
> out in a wooded area where they just weren't going to do anything.  I
> dug one of them up and planted it next to his deck and now it is a
> large shade tree that greatly enhances the yard.  Everytime I go over
> and visit I can look at that tree and remember what it looked like
> when it was just a small tree.  There is a certain amount of
> satisfaction that comes from watching something grow that you don't
> get when you go the instant satisfaction route.  It's the same reason
> some people prefer to plant seeds of a particular plant instead of
> buying a potted plant.
> Chris:
> >I like soil with a ton of peat moss and cow manure that has been
> >mixed in really well.  I have also heard that spreading the roots out
> >helps and that you should unsnarl the roots if necessary.
> There use to be an old theory in horticulture that when you planted
> trees you should dig out a nice deep and wide hole and then fill it up
> with a well amended soil mix.  Well, there is something called boundry
> dynamics that isn't well understood, but has a significent effect on
> how plants grow.  Basically, roots don't like to cross well defined
> boundaries.  If you plant a tree in that hole with the well ammended
> soil mix and come by a few years later you will find that most of the
> roots are still within that original hole, and if you don't unsnarl
> the roots it's almost guaranteed that the rootsd will be in that
> original hole.  Another neighbor of mine had planted some juniper
> trees that he bought in one gallon containers.  Well, he just dug a
> small enough hole and put the junipers directly into the hole with out
> doing anything to the roots.  About five years later he noticed that
> they weren't growing and asked me to check them out.  Well, I pulled
> up on one of them and the whole thing came right up and the root ball
> was still the same size as it was 5 years earlier when it was in a
> pot.  Everyone of those plants could have been pulled up and put back
> into a one gallon pot with no effort.
> If you look at hostas that have been potted up, especially large sized
> hostas in small pots, you see the same tangled roots as you get in
> potted trees.  This summer I bought a one gallon pot of Elvis Lives
> that had about 7 fans total.  I recently unpotted it and I could have
> used it as a hockey puck!  Gardeners who don't know better might just
> drop it into a hole just like that and then wonder why the plant isn't
> growing well or increasing.  The roots will continue to grow in a
> tight circle even if they are planted in the ground.  It's very
> important to untangle those roots.  Spreading out the roots will help
> with anchoring the plant, but spreading them out isn't quite as
> critical as just getting them untangled.
> As to mixing in a large amount of peat moss or other organic matter,
> don't just mix in the organic matter in the hole where you are going
> to plant the hosta, and make sure there are no sharp boundries for the
> roots to cross.  A number of years ago Charlie Purtymun laid down a
> thick layer of organic mulch on the area next to part of his driveway
> where he planted some hostas.  The hostas grew quite well for awhile
> and then didn't do as well.  Well, what happened is that at first they
> did well in the organic layer, but as summer came along the organic
> layer dried out and the roots never crossed the boundry into the heavy
> clay below the organic layer.  One little tug and the plants came
> right up.  If you put down a thick layer of mulch before planting, it
> is important to make sure you dig it up a little to break up that soil
> - organic layer boundry.
> Joe Halinar
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the
To sign-off this list, send email to majordomo@mallorn.com with the

 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index