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Re: CULT: Maps


Teresa Cobb wrote:
> 
> I know I will need to start a map when I plant, but "orthogonal distances". . . may have to wait
> a few years for me.  Do you use a protractor to calculate angles and then distances between?
> I like the info you list on your labels, a few things I hadn't thought of listing.

Teresa,

If you have square or rectangular beds you can think of the positions as
"Rows and Columns". I mark mine in one foot increments. In one direction
I use numbers, and and in the other le)tters. So my designations look
like 
LB 10C  (left bed, row 10 column C)

I print my tags from my data base so I tend to have a lot of info on
them.

Iris Name
Hybridizer
Intro Year
Type
Description
Garden location Code
Registered Height
Bloom Season
Planting Date
Where I got it

All on a 1 1/2" by 5 1/2" Vinyl paper tag that I hang on a marker next
to each plant. Additionally, I color code my tags by type. This way I
can look at the plant and compare it with the tag, see how it is
growing, start recognizing the look of the hybridizer, and know that it
is not misnamed.

Probably excessive, but what can you say about an analytic.  :>)))

In Windy Fremont CA, where the weather man should include blowing
garbage cans in his report. 

John                     | "There be dragons here"
                         |  Annotation used by ancient cartographers
                         |  to indicate the edge of the known world.

John Jones, jijones@ix.netcom.com
Fremont CA, USDA zone 8/9 (coastal, bay) 
Max high 95F/35C, Min Low 28F/-2C average 10 days each
Heavy clay base for my raised beds.





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