hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive


Linda, you asked for seed-starting speedup tips. Since our climates are somewhat analogous, I felt I should answer tho anyone here can tell you I'm no expert!  I can only tell you what worked well for me back when I was more organized and not spending all my fall time on editing/meetings etc....<G>  

As soon as the pods started to open, I planted seeds 1" deep in a row in my cold frame (soil mix of about 1/3 ea. soil, peat moss, and sand, worked very fine, and right next to the water faucet.)  The seeds didn't dry out, and so didn't take all the time (years!) to reabsorb moisture enough to grow.  They sprouted immediately and grew well as long as they were not allowed to dry out too much. (Have to watch that heavy peatmoss mix!)  Germination was good. They don't seem to require winter cold to germinate. I marked crosses with venetian blind labels, as they hold up and can be short enough to put the "lid" over.

As soon as it got cold, the windows went on the cold frame and they continued to grow during at least part of the winter. (Keep in mind that we are Zone 6, and some winters don't get under 0 more than two or three times, and the soil is usually not frozen except the top layer a few days at a time, an inch or so deep, and naturally, less in the cold frame.)  

By late spring they were ready to be transplanted out to grow on.  (And keep in mind all went well IF the mole hadn't totally rearranged them or the squirrels/neighbor's cat hadn't dug them up, or the slugs eaten the baby leaves.) Putting in a metal soil barrier and putting screens over the cold frame helped with this. By the following spring, some would bloom--even most, if I got enough weeding, fertilizing and judicious watering done.  (Most of these were rebloomers on at least one side, which do seem to grow/multiply faster.)

In recent years, there's been no method in my madness to speak of, at all!  Just finished planting iris seeds in the dark last weekend, which kept me out late enough to both see and hear the great horned owl which has returned to our suburban neighborhood (St. Louis).  What a thrill!  (I like to envision him swooping down and snatching off those pesky squirrels in midnight raids, but fear that isn't reality...)

Nyla Hughes, in Zone 6 St. Louis, where we're starting out to have a real winter this week--8" of snow, some sleet and ice, another inch of snow, and down to zero this morning, and I'm thinking of joining my son in San Jose whether he likes it or not!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~>
It's Easy. It's Fun. Best of All, it's Free!

 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index