hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive

CULT: help re: Mudding in irises

From: linda Mann <lmann@mailhub.icx.net>

I got an offlist question about planting irises this time of year, but
thought the answer might be of interest to others.  This is all pretty
unorthodox, but heck, we are gardeners & like good cooks, don't always
work from the book.

I learned from listers that irises can be moved or even shipped &
planted in the winter - forgotten rhizomes have been sent to me in
various states of shriveled & semi-decomposedness late in the fall or
even January and have gone on to bloom the following spring, plus some
nice healthy rhizomes were sent to me one March and bloomed normally
later that spring.

Because my soil is so gravelly, I don't like to set out pots until AFTER
we get some rain, and this year has been so dry, that means I am still
setting out plants (could have done them all a week or so ago, but I'm
slow), instead of earlier.  I've also 'mudded' them in where the soil is
a clay loam with little rock.  The trick is to really mud them in - soak
them good so there are no air pockets.  As for rot - keep the rhizomes
growing well and they are not likely to rot - that means good drainage
(they can tolerate a lot of water as long as the soil isn't saturated
for long periods - some of mine in fescue sod pasture were 2 ft under
the creek when it jumped the banks last year and were fine).

If I were setting pots in pure clay, I would dig a hole (on top of the
raised bed) at least twice the size of the pot, put the plant and it's
(hopefully) rootball in the middle of the hole and fill in around it
with clay soup.  Maybe mix the clay soup with some loam or potting mix
or sand to make a soup that won't set as concrete.  Over the winter, it
should freeze/thaw enough to restore some porosity.  Maybe.  Plant a few
earthworms?  Fill in with sand if the clay settles too much as it dries.

Linda Mann east Tennessee USA

--------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------

Tired of filling out forms and remembering passwords? Gator fills in
forms and passwords with just one click! Comes with $50 in free coupons!
  <a href=" http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/gator4 ">Click Here</a>


 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index