hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
 Navigation
Articles
Gallery of Plants
Blog
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Patents
Mailing Lists
    FAQ
    Netiquette
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
Links
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

Unauthorized use of a plant doesn't invalidate it's patent

RSS story archive

Re: Re: CULT: Transplanting Irises

  • Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Transplanting Irises
  • From: "lilylvr" <lilylvr@kansas.net>
  • Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:33:30 -0700

Wow Paul,
And I thought I was being brave moving them in early spring. I have a couple that are real large I think I will try this and see if it works here. That is after the wonderful rain we just received dries up some. Painted Pictures, Megabucks, Mary Francis and Ever After are finishing the show this year. I divided too many of my other late bloomers last year and they chose not to bloom this year. Painted picture put up 2 stalks of bloom and 6 increases on the rhizome I planted last July. Really nice large flowers also. This is the first time I have had more than one stalk per rhizome. What a treat.
Wendy
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul Tyerman 
  To: iris-talk@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 4:42 AM
  Subject: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Transplanting Irises


  > 
  > The highest increase rate and the strongest growth plus bloom I have 
  > ever seen has come from late May-early June division and reset--
  > without the butch haircut.

  There is a change taking place in the horticultural community regarding
  root pruning and associated foliage pruning (not just irises, but
  anything).  It was always said that if the roots were trimmed by 1/3 then
  the foliage should be trimmed back by 1/3 to balance the loss of roots.

  They're now finally realising that this isn't the way to work.  By trimming
  the foliage as well as the roots you're giving two shocks to the plant from
  which it has to recover.  Removal of the foliage removes feeding potential,
  plus removel af roots does the same thing.  By removing both you're
  affecting the plant that much more.

  As far as I knwo the reason for trimming back the fan is to stop the newly
  planted rhizome from toppling over.  This is generally the case in shipped
  plants because it helps conserve space, plus the roots are removed so it
  had no means to stabilise itself in the ground.  I have found that plants
  are definitely happier i their root damage is minimised, and the foliage is
  left intact.  If you lift hte rhizome carefully and replant with a good
  splay of roots, covering them firmly, then there shouldn't be much in the
  way of movement.

  I was also told when I first started with irises that you must be extremely
  careful with iris roots as they do not regrow if the root tip is broken
  off.  I was told that they do no branch and they they would have to start
  growing a new root to replace it.  If you have been told this it is a LOAD
  OF CRAP!!!!!  I have tested this specifically to find out and if a root is
  broken it will branch and more roots will emerge from the side of the
  existing root.  I originally treated them with extreme care as I was afraid
  of hurting them...... they will survive just fine on their own.

  Basically, if you're lifting and dividing your own iris.... lift them with
  as many roots as possible.  Replant them with the roots splayed out on
  either side of the rhizome and firm the soil over them.  Don't mess with
  the leaves as they allow for extra food to be produced, or alternatively if
  the plant is suffering it will withdraw the nutrients from the leaf back
  into itself.... so the leaves act as a sort of storage buffer.

  I've always been told that the best time to divide irises is when they are
  in flower (or just after) before they head into their growth cycle.  This
  makes a lot of sense as it will minimise root damage as the new roots start
  as the new side-shoots develop.

  That's pretty much a summary of what I've been able to come up with.

  Comments?

  Cheers.

  Paul Tyerman
  Canberra, Australia.  USDA equivalent - Zone 8
  mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au

  Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Lilium, Aroids, Irises
  plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!!


        Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
       
       

  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 






 © 1995-2015 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index