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Re: OT-Bio Bob & Sandra


She's similar.  USDA climate zones (stupidly) only look at winter low
temperatures; some 140-degree deserts get cold in the winter, but do not
really compare to northern California or southern Oregon.  Buena Park winters
are a lot like mine; the hottest summer days may be a tiny bit warmer.  Randy
Squires (also on iris-talk) would also have a similar climate to your friend,
but with just a pinch higher highs and lower lows.  Again, Ghio iris should be
well-matched, recent (not older) Blyth things (she NEEDS Louisa's Song), most
Hager things, Ernst things (although from Oregon) generally do well for me ...
better than Schreiner things.  Sutton things are mostly strong, Keppels and
Maryotts are inconsistent.  Ghio stuff is probably the best fit, and most of
his things are gorgeous.

Good luck!
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob and Sandra
  To: iris@hort.net
  Sent: Monday, May 31, 2004 4:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra


  Hi John,

  Been busy.  Sorry its taken this long to get back to you.
  Janet a friend of mine asked me to see what Iris would grow in her zone.
  She said it was ten.  The city she lives in in California is Buena Park,
  Calif..  Could she be incorrect in saying its 10 and it might be like
yours?
  John I've sent her your info below.  If you can think of more she would
  appreciate it.  Thanks a lot for the info.
  Sandra
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "John Reeds" <lamegardener@msn.com>
  To: <iris@hort.net>
  Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 8:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra


  > Where is your zone 10?  The high temperatures and humidity are more
  important
  > than the lows once you get out of the "frozen tundra" climates.  Iris are
  > remarkably adaptable and only the extremes are really a problem for most.
  > Unfortunately, USDA zones only reflect the low temperatures.  For zone 10
  that
  > probably means no winter freezes, so siberians (and many dwarf beardeds
  and
  > japanese) are unlikely to thrive.  In 9b I love Ghio iris, Hagar things,
  some
  > Keppels, some V. Woods, many Schreiners (but not their lacy things or
most
  of
  > their neglectas; both may need a winter freeze to really thrive).  Many
  Ernst
  > and Sutton things do well here, but are not my favorites.  Recent Blyth
  iris
  > are exceptional; I had less luck with his earlier introductions.  A few
of
  my
  > favorites are Louisa's Song, Epicenter, Double Click, Timescape,
  Valentines
  > Day,... this is just a start.
  >
  > John Reeds
  > lamegardener@msn.com
  > San Juan Capistrano, CA 9b
  >   ----- Original Message -----
  >   From: Bob and Sandra
  >   To: iris@hort.net
  >   Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 9:29 AM
  >   Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra
  >
  >
  >   John & Char,
  >
  >   Thanks for asking which fungicide to use Char.  John this one sounds
  like
  >   the one for me.  This one work good for Roses too.Thanks.
  >
  >   Could anyone tell me how to raise Iris in zone 10.  And let me know
were
  to
  >   purchase the correct Iris for this zone.  Have a friend that wanted me
  to
  >   find out.  Any help will be appreciated.
  >
  >         I learned something neat from  a friend so thought I would share
  it
  >   with gardening  friends.
  >         If you like Gerber Daisy's this is really neat info on starting
  them
  >   from seed.
  >
  >               I thought you guys would might find this useful: OK I have
  been
  >   running a seed production experiment on my gerber daisys. I have a
  neighbor
  >   whom I just met recently and she grows gerbers and I finally got the
  nerve
  >   to approach her and get some tips on raising them. What she told me is,
  if
  > I
  >   want my gerbers to produce more viable seed I need to remove all the
  petals
  >   of my flower after it's spent. let the center finish drying on the
plant
  > and
  >   just before the fluff blows away cut it and separate the seeds from the
  >   fluff. I did just that, except I did one leaving all the petals and one
  I
  >   removed them. I did this two differant times over the last month. the
  first
  >   time I got zero viable seeds on the one I left the petals on and 26 on
  the
  >   one where I removed them. Second time which was today I have 3 viable
on
  > the
  >   flower with petals and 31 on the flower head without petals. Maybe it's
  a
  >   fluke but I'm going with it and since this neighbor is an expert
growing
  >   them I think I I'll definnately keep removing the petals once spent.
She
  > has
  >   rows of really nice ones and she told me she has either bought them
when
  >   they are .25 and .50 at places like k-mart or walmart but mainly she
  >   cultivates the seed and shares with family and friends. I'm hoping to
  > become
  >   her friend. LOL, Give it a try.
  >
  >               Going to try it with my Gerber Daisy's this year when they
  go
  > to
  >   seed.  Hope this is alright to share this here.  Sandra
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >   ----- Original Message -----
  >   From: "John Reeds" <lamegardener@msn.com>
  >   To: <iris@hort.net>
  >   Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 11:55 PM
  >   Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra
  >
  >
  >   > J
  >   >   Hi John,
  >   >   Could you be specific on what fungicides to use?
  >   >   Thanks, Char New Berlin, WI
  >   >
  >   >   As I said, most fungicides will work.  I use Green Light
  "Fung-away", I
  >   > don't know the chemical, because (1) it works pretty good and (2) it
  goes
  >   on
  >   > clear.  Most fungicides (like Ortho - which seems to be the only
brand
  >   Home
  >   > Depot carries) seem to have a talc base which leaves beige waterspots
  on
  >   the
  >   > leaves; seems to me eliminating brown spots on the leaves is the
whole
  >   purpose
  >   > for spraying...duh!  So, I like the clear stuff.  It is also
  > competitively
  >   > priced.  Green Light also sold the only effective red spider mite
  spray
  >   (based
  >   > on Kelthane) until they took it off the home gardener market and
  replaced
  >   it
  >   > with a useless product based on pyrethrins or neem oil or something
  like
  >   > that.
  >   >
  >   >   John Reeds
  >   >   lamegardener@msn.com
  >   >   zone 9b southern CA
  >   >
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