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Re: OT-Bio Bob & Sandra

Where is your zone 10?  The high temperatures and humidity are more important
than the lows once you get out of the "frozen tundra" climates.  Iris are
remarkably adaptable and only the extremes are really a problem for most.
Unfortunately, USDA zones only reflect the low temperatures.  For zone 10 that
probably means no winter freezes, so siberians (and many dwarf beardeds and
japanese) are unlikely to thrive.  In 9b I love Ghio iris, Hagar things, some
Keppels, some V. Woods, many Schreiners (but not their lacy things or most of
their neglectas; both may need a winter freeze to really thrive).  Many Ernst
and Sutton things do well here, but are not my favorites.  Recent Blyth iris
are exceptional; I had less luck with his earlier introductions.  A few of my
favorites are Louisa's Song, Epicenter, Double Click, Timescape, Valentines
Day,... this is just a start.

John Reeds
San Juan Capistrano, CA 9b
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob and Sandra
  To: iris@hort.net
  Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 9:29 AM
  Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra

  John & Char,

  Thanks for asking which fungicide to use Char.  John this one sounds like
  the one for me.  This one work good for Roses too.Thanks.

  Could anyone tell me how to raise Iris in zone 10.  And let me know were to
  purchase the correct Iris for this zone.  Have a friend that wanted me to
  find out.  Any help will be appreciated.

        I learned something neat from  a friend so thought I would share it
  with gardening  friends.
        If you like Gerber Daisy's this is really neat info on starting them
  from seed.

              I thought you guys would might find this useful: OK I have been
  running a seed production experiment on my gerber daisys. I have a neighbor
  whom I just met recently and she grows gerbers and I finally got the nerve
  to approach her and get some tips on raising them. What she told me is, if
  want my gerbers to produce more viable seed I need to remove all the petals
  of my flower after it's spent. let the center finish drying on the plant
  just before the fluff blows away cut it and separate the seeds from the
  fluff. I did just that, except I did one leaving all the petals and one I
  removed them. I did this two differant times over the last month. the first
  time I got zero viable seeds on the one I left the petals on and 26 on the
  one where I removed them. Second time which was today I have 3 viable on
  flower with petals and 31 on the flower head without petals. Maybe it's a
  fluke but I'm going with it and since this neighbor is an expert growing
  them I think I I'll definnately keep removing the petals once spent. She
  rows of really nice ones and she told me she has either bought them when
  they are .25 and .50 at places like k-mart or walmart but mainly she
  cultivates the seed and shares with family and friends. I'm hoping to
  her friend. LOL, Give it a try.

              Going to try it with my Gerber Daisy's this year when they go
  seed.  Hope this is alright to share this here.  Sandra

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: "John Reeds" <lamegardener@msn.com>
  To: <iris@hort.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 11:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra

  > J
  >   Hi John,
  >   Could you be specific on what fungicides to use?
  >   Thanks, Char New Berlin, WI
  >   As I said, most fungicides will work.  I use Green Light "Fung-away", I
  > don't know the chemical, because (1) it works pretty good and (2) it goes
  > clear.  Most fungicides (like Ortho - which seems to be the only brand
  > Depot carries) seem to have a talc base which leaves beige waterspots on
  > leaves; seems to me eliminating brown spots on the leaves is the whole
  > for spraying...duh!  So, I like the clear stuff.  It is also
  > priced.  Green Light also sold the only effective red spider mite spray
  > on Kelthane) until they took it off the home gardener market and replaced
  > with a useless product based on pyrethrins or neem oil or something like
  > that.
  >   John Reeds
  >   lamegardener@msn.com
  >   zone 9b southern CA
  > ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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