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Re: OT-Bio Bob & Sandra

Hi John,

Been busy.  Sorry its taken this long to get back to you.
Janet a friend of mine asked me to see what Iris would grow in her zone.
She said it was ten.  The city she lives in in California is Buena Park,
Calif..  Could she be incorrect in saying its 10 and it might be like yours?
John I've sent her your info below.  If you can think of more she would
appreciate it.  Thanks a lot for the info.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Reeds" <lamegardener@msn.com>
To: <iris@hort.net>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra

> Where is your zone 10?  The high temperatures and humidity are more
> than the lows once you get out of the "frozen tundra" climates.  Iris are
> remarkably adaptable and only the extremes are really a problem for most.
> Unfortunately, USDA zones only reflect the low temperatures.  For zone 10
> probably means no winter freezes, so siberians (and many dwarf beardeds
> japanese) are unlikely to thrive.  In 9b I love Ghio iris, Hagar things,
> Keppels, some V. Woods, many Schreiners (but not their lacy things or most
> their neglectas; both may need a winter freeze to really thrive).  Many
> and Sutton things do well here, but are not my favorites.  Recent Blyth
> are exceptional; I had less luck with his earlier introductions.  A few of
> favorites are Louisa's Song, Epicenter, Double Click, Timescape,
> Day,... this is just a start.
> John Reeds
> lamegardener@msn.com
> San Juan Capistrano, CA 9b
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Bob and Sandra
>   To: iris@hort.net
>   Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 9:29 AM
>   Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra
>   John & Char,
>   Thanks for asking which fungicide to use Char.  John this one sounds
>   the one for me.  This one work good for Roses too.Thanks.
>   Could anyone tell me how to raise Iris in zone 10.  And let me know were
>   purchase the correct Iris for this zone.  Have a friend that wanted me
>   find out.  Any help will be appreciated.
>         I learned something neat from  a friend so thought I would share
>   with gardening  friends.
>         If you like Gerber Daisy's this is really neat info on starting
>   from seed.
>               I thought you guys would might find this useful: OK I have
>   running a seed production experiment on my gerber daisys. I have a
>   whom I just met recently and she grows gerbers and I finally got the
>   to approach her and get some tips on raising them. What she told me is,
> I
>   want my gerbers to produce more viable seed I need to remove all the
>   of my flower after it's spent. let the center finish drying on the plant
> and
>   just before the fluff blows away cut it and separate the seeds from the
>   fluff. I did just that, except I did one leaving all the petals and one
>   removed them. I did this two differant times over the last month. the
>   time I got zero viable seeds on the one I left the petals on and 26 on
>   one where I removed them. Second time which was today I have 3 viable on
> the
>   flower with petals and 31 on the flower head without petals. Maybe it's
>   fluke but I'm going with it and since this neighbor is an expert growing
>   them I think I I'll definnately keep removing the petals once spent. She
> has
>   rows of really nice ones and she told me she has either bought them when
>   they are .25 and .50 at places like k-mart or walmart but mainly she
>   cultivates the seed and shares with family and friends. I'm hoping to
> become
>   her friend. LOL, Give it a try.
>               Going to try it with my Gerber Daisy's this year when they
> to
>   seed.  Hope this is alright to share this here.  Sandra
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "John Reeds" <lamegardener@msn.com>
>   To: <iris@hort.net>
>   Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 11:55 PM
>   Subject: Re: [iris] OT-Bio Bob & Sandra
>   > J
>   >   Hi John,
>   >   Could you be specific on what fungicides to use?
>   >   Thanks, Char New Berlin, WI
>   >
>   >   As I said, most fungicides will work.  I use Green Light
"Fung-away", I
>   > don't know the chemical, because (1) it works pretty good and (2) it
>   on
>   > clear.  Most fungicides (like Ortho - which seems to be the only brand
>   Home
>   > Depot carries) seem to have a talc base which leaves beige waterspots
>   the
>   > leaves; seems to me eliminating brown spots on the leaves is the whole
>   purpose
>   > for spraying...duh!  So, I like the clear stuff.  It is also
> competitively
>   > priced.  Green Light also sold the only effective red spider mite
>   (based
>   > on Kelthane) until they took it off the home gardener market and
>   it
>   > with a useless product based on pyrethrins or neem oil or something
>   > that.
>   >
>   >   John Reeds
>   >   lamegardener@msn.com
>   >   zone 9b southern CA
>   >
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