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Re: mist bed--long reply
- To: <s*@eskimo.com>
- Subject: Re: mist bed--long reply
- From: "* V* <s*@pacific.telebyte.com>
- Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 16:04:16 -0700
- Resent-Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 16:03:36 -0700
- Resent-From: seeds-list@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"SWNZj2.0.6T5.6Timp"@mx1>
- Resent-Sender: seeds-list-request@eskimo.com
Rick,
Several points to consider that I offer from my many years of experiences
as a professional and hobby propagator.
Humidity system
Some prefer mist, others a high humidity tent/dome. I have used both
successfully. To some degree it depends on the plants you are trying to
root. Some plants like Lilac root much better under mist than high
humidity while many alpine species or those with very waxy or indumented
leaves rot if the foliage stays wet. The mist is useful in the summer
when the cooling effect is helpful. But during our long dull periods in
the winter it may keep the rooting media too wet and cool. Many plants
will root under mist but then need to be removed immediately else the roots
begin to rot.
N.B. Do not depend or rely on the mist system to water the cuttings. The
mist is only to keep the humidity high, leaves wet and cool, NOT to water
the roots. A common misconception. It is best to water by hand so that
you can control the media moisture level. You can always add more
water..but you can not remove it from soggy propagation beds.
Humidity domes may overheat if the light levels are not carefully watched.
I use a master timer hooked to a homemade version of the balance beam mist
controller that is sold by commercial supply houses for over $170.00. The
famous Mist-o-Matic. A very good device if it is kept out of drafts, and
the algae and mineral buildup is cleaned off the screen periodically. One
of these days I will get around to scanning the plans for building one and
make available to interested folks. You can check out the old Bulletin of
the American Rhododendron Society...back in the 60's or early 70's for a
set of plans...in an article by Warren Berg. I use this system since it is
environmentally sensitive where a timer alone doesn't notice humidity
changes or sun breaks.
Mist nozzles come in various types....Everyone has their favorites.
Important thing is to make a mock up first to study the mist distribution
pattern so that no dry spots show up in your mist bed/chamber. Also buy
several extra so if one clogs or breaks you can replace it quickly so
cuttings don't dry out.
Also, be sure to plumb a manual bypass around the solenoid should it
malfunction or it's manual control fail.
It is simple little things that cause you the greatest problems.
Be sure the water is clean (no sand to clog valves or nozzles). Also,
paint or cover the PVC pipe or use black poly pipe. Algae grows inside
white PVC pipe and can flake off and move downstream and clog a nozzle or
two...always when you are away for a hot weekend.
My best indoor mist bed was made of pressure treated wood (galvanized nails
and all hardware) with the table just below waist height, with PVC pipe
forming the framework to support a single thin layer of poly along the
sides but with the top open. This kept breezes out but let lots of air in.
Another big hint...figure out what containers (flats) you want to use
first, measure them and then construct the bed to accommodate them evenly
with minimal wasted space. Generally don't make the bed so wide you can't
reach the center easily.
Many growers use mist beds outdoors in nearly full sun in the summer with
great success.
Containers
I prefer to root in deep flats I currently use Anderson Deep Propagation
Flats that measure something like 15.5 x 15.5 x 5 inches deep. I also use
them to sow seeds when I have large quantities to germinate and grow on.
The danger of using small pots to root directly in is that a plant may root
before you realize it and will dry out the media with fatal results. I do
root into 2 3/8 by 6 inch Anderson Bands and occasionally 4" square pots.
Heat system
IMHO bottom heat is essential. DO NOT buy one of the preset cheap
cables. They do not last very long and it is much better to have control
over the rooting zone temp. I have found the hot water tube types (i.e.
Bio-Therm) to be very good as well as the electrical "wire" sealed in a
plastic mat (such as Agritape) or rubber mat.
Light system
It is very helpful to be able to extend the photoperiod to "force" growth
on many woody species that otherwise will not make it through a dormancy
period if they fail to store sufficient carbohydrates. This can be
accomplished with 60 watt incandescent bulbs hung 3 feet over the cuttings
every 3 to 4 feet of bed length and turned on by timer from 10pm till 2am
every night. Also it is helpful to supplement the light levels during dull
winter periods. Any of the halide, metal-arc, high energy discharge lamps
work very well...they are expensive and need to be positioned to avoid the
hot spot being at the level of the plants. There is a lamp shuttle system
that works well to move the lamps slowly thus allowing one lamp to cover
the area the two would be normally needed.
In general the special blue incandescent "gro-lamps" are a waste of money.
Please remember that I approach propagation from a commercial/research
angle, where I need to be able to control, thus reproduce environmental
parameters to achieve consistently high rates of success.
Ziplock bags under a fluorescent shop light work very well for many
plants....I do this when I run out of space sometimes. In general
fluorescent lamps do not put out enough energy unless the lamps are very
close to the cuttings (3-6 inches) and left on for 20-24 hour photoperiod.
Also fluorescent tube don't burn out like incandescent or halide
lamps...they fade slowly and most human eyes do not perceive this change.
A cool-white FL lamp should be replaced yearly if it is used everyday.
Just replace one lamp and you can easily see the difference. Also old FL
lamps tax the ballast system thus shortening its life.
I root my Nepenthes (tropical insectivorous plants) in an old aquarium with
two shop lights over them that are on for 24 hours a day. This helps to
keep them warm as well.
Anyway enough rambling...my 25 cent answer to your question.
I may have missed some points...like media, hormones/growth regulators etc.
but those are different topics.
You can never make one too big....it is always filled up but a 4 x 8 bed
can crank out a heck of a lot of plant material.
Best of luck,
Scott
..........................................................
Scott Gregory Vergara
Botanical Resources
(Specialty Nursery, Horticulture Education/Training, Consulting)
P.O. Box 669
Burley, Washington 98322-0669 USA
USDA Zone 8 Ave Min Temp 10-20 deg F. Record low 0/hi 104
svergara@pacific.telebyte.com, HORTULANUS@aol.com
..........................................................
----------
> From: Richard Grazzini <rickg@centrelab.com>
> To: Seeds list <seeds-list@eskimo.com>
> Subject: mist bed
> Date: Tuesday, July 08, 1997 2:28 PM
>
> I need to put together a mist bed for propagation.
>
> Any suggestions as to design, components, etc.?
>
> Any good or bad experiences out there re mist bed construction or
> operation.
>
> Thanks.
> rickg@centrelab.com
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