Re: crop rotation

**David Smead s*@amplepower.com**

Greetings from Sunny Seattle,

Because small plots in community gardens are just one big garden for
the diseases that reside there, crop rotation as a means of disease
control is not likely to be successful unless everyone in the garden
agrees not to crow a particular crop for the season.

Crop rotation as a nutrient strategy is fine, but not necessary in soil
which is well fed with a steady diet of compost, leaves, grass clipping,
spent hops and grain, remains of apple cider and grape pressings, etc.
This is also the best strategy for disease control.  Keep food for the
inhabitants of the soil in constant supply.

I no longer till the soil.  To plant I grab one of the oyster shells
laying in my plot and scrape off enough mulch to get the seeds into
dirt.

Regarding not growing tomatoes and other plants in the same place every
year - not only have I quit tilling, I've quit planting lots of seeds.
For the last several years, tomatoes, kale, and other plants have
volunteered.  The tomatoes seem to be hardier and sweeter every year.
I have tomatoes well into October, and when others have
been struck with blight, my plants are still green and thriving.  I also
do the unthinkable, which is to cut up the trimmings from the tomato
plants and use it directly as mulch under the plants.

Well fed soil solves a lot of problems.

\/
Sincerely,

David Smead
http://www.amplepower.com

On Fri, 15 Apr 2005, Diane Dodge wrote:

> Noreen and all,
>
> Noreen wrote:
> Should gardeners who have small field-style plots -- 10 x 10, 10 x 20, 20 x
> 30, etc.-- rotate crops each year? Some in our community of gardeners say
> "yes" and others "no". Is there a general guideline someone can point me to
> regarding this issue?
>   Your help with this is appreciated.
>
> IMHO, some rotation is necessary, to prevent some of the previous year's
> diseases and soil dwelling pests from infecting your crops this year.  The
> general rules: not to plant nightshades(tomatoes, potatoes, etc.) is the
> same spot for several years, since they are quite susceptible to the same
> diseases; ditto for brassica(cabbage, broccoli, radishes, etc.).
>
> Check out the following from the U. of Minnesota:
> http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1427.html
>
> And a simple garden map for the year makes really good sense!
>
> Happy Gardening,
>
> Diane Dodge, Minnesota Master Gardener
>
> P.S.  ACGA Conference is being held in MINNESOTA this year!  Y'all come!
>
>
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______________________________________________________
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