Re: Re: always something....lavender

Well mine grow in chimney flue liners (like very tall bottomless pots, w/
potting soil w/ lava sand mixed in and pea gravel mulch in full sun.   I do
not prune them however.  Maybe I should start from your notes!  Thanks
Bonnie.

On 8/30/06, Bonnie Holmes <holmesbm@usit.net> wrote:
>
> I'm growing lavender in hot and humid weather...biggest problem is root
> rot
> but I have put it in a well-drained raised bed with chicken grit as mulch.
> It is doing ok.
>
> These are the notes I took at seminar on herbs from a woman who grows
> lavender in Southern VA:
>
> Cut lavenders back by a third in spring.
>
> Lavenders are shrubs, not perennials.
>
> Put your lavender in pots so they don't drown and to avoid the clay, which
> they don't like. And if you live where you can't leave terra cotta pots
> out
> all winter, get those chimney flue liners - they look just like terra
> cotta
> and are much tougher. You can generally find them at a builder's supply
> place. If they can stand the temperature extremes in a chimney - a little
> nasty weather shouldn't bother them. I have some of my lavenders in those
> also! They're like miniature raised beds.
>
> Put several scoops of gravel in the bottom of the hole when you plant
> lavender.
>
> Use well-drained beds with something called "crusher run", fines or "dirty
> soil" that you often can get free from limestone quarries.  The material
> is
> very alkaline with trace minerals that the Mediterranean herbs love.  The
> fines are also used for mulch as the material also reflects the light and
> heat.  Gardeners can also use chicken grit and lime for similar effect.
>
> Mediterranean Herbs need sun and lots of air...cut out the centers of
> lavender, thyme, etc. to allow the air flow.  Prune these herbs three
> times
> a year:  late March or early April to force new, robust growth; after
> blooming, usually late June; and mid September as these herbs need about 6
> weeks of new growth before the 1st hard freeze.   Sage plants can last 7-8
> years if in sun, well-drained soil, and properly pruned.
>
> For fertilizer use comfrey tea:  fill a 5 gallon container with comfrey
> leaves (I guess I will need to set up a bed to grow these) and add water;
> let set for 3 weeks; when the smell is gone; water herbs with the tea.
>
> When planting, dig hole and put in water and sit the potted plant to be
> planted separately in water for 1 hour.  Plant and don't water for three
> days.  The plant may stress somewhat but it will be stronger once the
> roots
> are established.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <TeichFlora@aol.com>
> > To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> > Date: 8/30/2006 9:13:41 AM
> > Subject: [CHAT] Re: always something....lavender
> >
> > Pam, sure it wasn't overwatering....with $300 water bills.....I'm just
> > wondering.  Lavender usually likes it hot and dry.  We can't grow  it
> here at all,
> > even without any supplimental waterings it isn't dry  enough....not even
> in a
> > pot. Just a thought, since you usually dont' have a  problem growing it
> > otherwise.
> > Noreen
> > zone 9
> > Texas Gulf Coast
> >
> > In a message dated 8/29/2006 11:02:32 PM Central Standard Time,
> > gardenchat-owner@hort.net writes:
> >
> >
> > Very  dry also unusually hot.  Those poor babies just couldn't take  it
> > anymore.  The Spanish lavender handles the heat better but they  didn't
> have
> > any of those in stock last time I needed them, so I went w/
> the  English.
> > We'll see what they have in a few weeks from now when it's time to
> replace
> > them.  Lost 5 now so far.  2 are hanging in there.   Sigh.  Only good
> news is
> > I can strip the dead ones into the potpourri  'mixing' basket.
> >
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-- 
Pam Evans
Kemp TX
zone 8A

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