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Re: 'Limerock Ruby'


I have been successful with "Sweet Dreams" Coreopsis rosea
(http://davesgarden.com/t/404283/) in a sunny raised bed along a rock edge
with good drainage.  Previously, I had several to die and had about given
up.  Also, put a yellow variety in an old yellow wheelbarrow next to some
yellow-twig dogwood.  The bottom is about rusted out so there is plenty of
drainage.  I love the look of the "Limerock Ruby" and may try it to see if
it might survive overwinter here...maybe in the protection of the house.  

Bonnie Zone 6+ ETN




> [Original Message]
> From: Marge Talt <mtalt@hort.net>
> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Date: 01/10/2004 11:36:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] 'Limerock Ruby' 
>
> Well, Kitty, the wet crown thing seems to affect a lot of borderline
> hardy plants - and from what I've heard, it's not just 'wet' crown,
> but 'cold-wet' crown that does the plants in.  So, maybe it will
> survive best in a dry site or raised bed situation.  I have not grown
> Coreopsis for years; ever since where I used to have some sun became
> too shady for them.  
>
> Interesting about the cutting.  Probably because it roots from the
> nodes and forms more roots from 2 nodes than one?
>
> Tony has said many times about a lot of plants that are borderline
> hardy in northern parts of z7 that keeping them dry over winter is
> the key; they can handle cold, just not wet cold.  I have found this
> pretty impossible in my clay borders, even when they otherwise drain
> well.   Did read, however, on a nursery site whose name escapes me
> just now, but it's in my climate zone, that they had kept a brug
> alive by building an underground masonry wall around 3 sides of it;
> amending the soil so it drained like a bandit and mulching like
> mad....lotta work, but one of these years, I just may give it a
> whirl.  The concrete block wall kept the soil warmer, it seems.
>
> Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
> mtalt@hort.net
> Editor:  Gardening in Shade
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>
> ----------
> > From: kmrsy@comcast.net
> > Marge,
> > Yes I saw his comment and offer in PD catalogue. However, I also
> read
> > comments from him and others in the past year in which they
> explained
> > their reasons for referring to it as an annual. The two items I
> remember
> > are that A) the wet crown thing (appears Ceres read that one too),
> and
> > B) the type of cutting used - they seem to think that when the
> plant
> > comes from a two-node-rooted cutting vs a on-node-rooted cutting,
> it has
> > a better chance for survival.
> > 
> > 
> > If it doesn't return it's ok. In 2002 a nice size plant cost
> $10-12. In
> > 2003 you could pick a nice one up for $4. It grows so quickly, that
> it
> > does make a useful annual and $4 is a reasonable price for the
> amount of
> > space it covers.
>
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