Re: tomato woes

Your logic makes sense about killing beneficials, however, I read somewhere
that that isn't necessarily so, but can't recall why.  I'm going to see if I
can find that again.  Will let you know.
I held my edges down with bricks and rocks pushed down in a bit and it
seemed to be good enough.

Kitty

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tchessie" <tchessie@comcast.net>
To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 9:56 AM
Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes


> Wow- I had no idea this was so technical.  I think the plastic I have
(which
> is a clear drop cloth) should be fine.  In on of the links, the author
> talked about adding compost to the soil before solarizing.  This may be a
> stupid question- but wouldn't solarizing kill all the good critters in the
> compost too?  I assume not only bad things get killed for solarization,
but
> also good ones (I'm operating on an antibiotics theory here!).  There is
no
> way I can dig down a foot to bury the edges of the plastic, without
killing
> my other 2 tomato plants- so that's out, but I certainly could dig a few
> inches and tack down the edges with some of the multitude of brick I have
> here.  We aren't that windy in summer here- so think that would be OK.
So-
> the experiment continues!  I'm going to get this started this weekend.
> After summer is over, I'll cover the whole bed with plastic for the fall
(I
> think that south wall and our temps will likely still make it hot enough
to
> help).
> Thanks so much for all the info!
>
> Theresa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
> Behalf Of Kitty
> Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:45 PM
> To: gardenchat@hort.net
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] tomato woes
>
>
> Theresa - you haven't done your homework!
>
> here's a picture in  which they've use landscape timbers:
> http://www.floridagardener.com/critters/bedbed.htm
>
> How to Solarize Soil
> The area to be solarized should be level and free of debris and large
clods
> of soil. The soil should be watered if dry, but not saturated. The soil
> should have the crumbly damp look that the soil would have prior to
regular
> planting. Place clear plastic over the soil surface and bury the edges in
a
> foot deep trench. The plastic can be clear construction grade plastic and
> vary in thickness from 1 to 6 mils. The thinner plastic (1-2 mils) will
> allow better soil heating since it will reflect less solar energy. The
> plastic should be left in place for 2-6 weeks. Solarization is most
> effective when done in June, July, or the first couple weeks of August.
This
> will allow you to begin your vegetable garden at the end of August or
first
> weeks of September.
>
> According to MS State U:
> Selection of a plastic or polyethylene cover is probably the most
important
> step in the process. The cover must be clear and no more than 2
millimeters
> thick. It should be strong and durable enough to allow for stretching.
> Placement of the cover is also important. It should be stretched tight and
> in direct contact with the soil surface. Care must be taken to bury the
> edges of the tarp in the soil to a depth of at least six inches so as not
to
> allow the wind to lift the tarp during the solarization period. Remember,
> the tarp has to remain in-place for a four to six week period.
>
> Here's more detail:
> http://www.tucsongardener.com/Year99/Summer99/solarizi.htm
>
> Kitty
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tchessie" <tchessie@comcast.net>
> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 10:36 PM
> Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes
>
>
> > Ok- I give- how do you seal plastic to dirt?
> >
> > Theresa
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
> > Behalf Of Kitty
> > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 8:52 PM
> > To: gardenchat@hort.net
> > Subject: Re: [CHAT] tomato woes
> >
> >
> > Also is supposed to be of a certain thickness and needs to be sealed
> tightly
> > around the edges.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Tchessie" <tchessie@comcast.net>
> > To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:59 PM
> > Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes
> >
> >
> > > Oh!  I was thinking that the black would get hotter.  Thanks-  I have
> > clear
> > > plastic in the garage!
> > >
> > > Theresa
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
> > > Behalf Of Kitty
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 8:00 PM
> > > To: gardenchat@hort.net
> > > Subject: Re: [CHAT] tomato woes
> > >
> > >
> > > Soil sterilization is done with clear plastic, not black.
> > > Kitty
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Tchessie" <tchessie@comcast.net>
> > > To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> > > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:15 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes
> > >
> > >
> > > > I think I'll see about getting some black plastic now and putting
over
> > the
> > > > space that I ripped the two plants out of that were dying.  In fall,
> > I'll
> > > do
> > > > the whole garden, but I figure that area may as well get started
now!
> > > >
> > > > Theresa
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: owner-gardenchat@hort.net [o*@hort.net]On
> > > > Behalf Of James R. Fisher
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 3:42 PM
> > > > To: gardenchat@hort.net
> > > > Subject: Re: [CHAT] tomato woes
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Tchessie wrote:
> > > > > Solarization?  You mean cook the veggie garden?
> > > > >
> > > > > Theresa
> > > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > > Yes, exactly, at a good high temperature over an extended period.
> > > > Donna forwarded on a recipe for such just recently. If your tomatos
> > > > are shot in the current spot, this summer would be a good time to do
> it.
> > > > If you've still got tomatos in that garden, then you'll have to
delay
> > > > until fruiting is over and do it in the fall, and perhaps whenever
it
> > > > gets hot/bright enough next spring before planting.
> > > > -jrf
> > > > --
> > > > Jim Fisher
> > > > Vienna, Virginia USA
> > > > 38.9 N 77.2 W
> > > > USDA Zone 7
> > > > Max. 105 F [40 C], Min. 5 F [-15 C]
> > > >
> > >
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