Now this item I found very interesting:
" Residues of cruciferous plants have a high content of isothiocyanates and
aldehydes, which may be toxic to certain soilborne microorganisms including
nematodes, weeds, and pathogens. Incorporation of cabbage into the soil
before solarization may enhance pathogen control and even increase growth
and yield of certain crops, such as watermelon. Cabbage amendment was the
most effective when combined with irrigation management (saturated soil) or
crop rotation (Coelho et al., 2001; Keinath, 1996). In one greenhouse
experiment, addition of broccoli leaves to the soil suppressed populations
of root-knot nematodes (Ploeg and Stapleton, 2001). "
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kitty" <email@example.com>
To: "Agardenchat" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 12:09 PM
Subject: [CHAT] solarization
> The following answers your question re beneficials and also more fully
> explains what I mentioned in an earlier post about plants growing even
> better in solarized soil. The full text at the URL alludes to why you
> add compost:
> Increases in Plant Yield and Vigor
> Reasons for increased plant vigor by solarization are numerous
> complex. Perhaps the most obvious reason why plant health would increase
> solarized soil is the removal of root-damaging organisms. Another reason
> involves the availability of soluble nutrients. Some elements and
> are released from soil organic matter as decomposition increases at high
> temperatures. The removal of weeds and microorganisms that compete with
> plant for nutrient uptake is another reason for better plant growth in
> solarized soil. Once beneficial organisms recolonize the soil, they
> breakdown organic molecules into plant-usable soluble compounds. Many
> phytopathogenic organisms are not well-adapted for survival in the soil.
> a result, they are killed by solarization and are slow to rebuild
> populations. Beneficials microorganisms, on the other hand, are less
> affected by raised temperatures or show more rapid population growth and
> thus bountiful and available to convert many organic molecules into their
> inorganic, soluble forms (Katan, 1987; Stapleton and DeVay, 1995; Gamliel
> and Stapleton, 1993b).
> It has been observed in many studies that plants will grow more rapidly
> following either solarization or chemical fumigation techniques. The
> absence of soilborne pathogens allows plants to devote more energy to
> biomass production rather than to staving off pathogen attacks or
> with weeds. Correct use of solarization has been noted to produce a
> period of reduced-pathogen soil (usually lasting for about one season).
> Pathogens that are suppressed include: Phytophthora cinnamomi,
> lycopersici, Verticillium dahliae, and Roselinia necatrix (Katan et al.,
> 1983; Kassaby, 1985; Abdel-Rahim et al., 1988; Morgan et al., 1991; Tjamos
> and Paplomatas, 1988; Tjamos et al., 1991; Sztenjnberg et al., 1987).
> For the complete transcript with links to details go to:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tchessie" <email@example.com>
> To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 9:56 AM
> Subject: RE: [CHAT] tomato woes
> > Wow- I had no idea this was so technical. I think the plastic I have
> > is a clear drop cloth) should be fine. In on of the links, the author
> > talked about adding compost to the soil before solarizing. This may be
> > stupid question- but wouldn't solarizing kill all the good critters in
> > compost too? I assume not only bad things get killed for solarization,
> > also good ones (I'm operating on an antibiotics theory here!). There is
> > way I can dig down a foot to bury the edges of the plastic, without
> > my other 2 tomato plants- so that's out, but I certainly could dig a few
> > inches and tack down the edges with some of the multitude of brick I
> > here. We aren't that windy in summer here- so think that would be OK.
> > the experiment continues! I'm going to get this started this weekend.
> > After summer is over, I'll cover the whole bed with plastic for the fall
> > think that south wall and our temps will likely still make it hot enough
> > help).
> > Thanks so much for all the info!
> > Theresa
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