Re: rain garden

The program also included a section on roof gardens.  They are much more
popular in Europe and Canada.  The benefits include air quality, sound
attenuation, thermal efficiency, longer roof life, and plant and animal
habitat.  Using a flat roof, you can also include recreation with putting
greens, batting cages and passive recreation.  

For the Extensive type, you have to have a strong roof to support the dirt
and water...10-50lbs/sf, especially if saturated.  They usually require
less maintenance and are less expensive.

The less saturated, aka Eco-Roofs, have less than a 6" profile and use
thin, few layers with low growing plants; 70-80% inorganic and 20-30%
organic soils.  

Waterproofing system is the most important component.  You also must have
structural integrity, drainage, and potential access.  You need: 
vegetation, a growing medium, filter membrane, drainage layer, waterproof
repellant membrane, support panels, thermal insulation, vapor control
layer, and structural support. 

Go for it.

Bonnie Zone 7/7 ETN
Remember:  The River Raisin, The Alamo, The Maine, Pearl Harbor, 9/11


> [Original Message]
> From: james singer <islandjim1@verizon.net>
> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> Date: 3/7/2007 1:51:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [CHAT] rain garden
>
> I have no rain gutters, but I do have a French drain all around the 
> roof drip line. I also have no slope on the property, so the rain 
> garden seems like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I'm very 
> interested in green rooves, however, and have been ever since I saw 
> pictures of native houses in Central America with used-tire vegetable 
> plots all over their rooves.
>
> On Mar 7, 2007, at 1:33 PM, Bonnie Holmes wrote:
>
> > I attended a workshop last summer on water.  One of the presentations 
> > was
> > on rain gardens.  I have a CD with the presentation.  According to the
> > presentation, rain gardens can significantly reduce runoff and the 
> > demand
> > made on storm water systems, flooding, and reduce pollution.  They 
> > don't
> > seem difficult to construct.  You need a soil filter rate of 2.5".  The
> > water needs to perk in 3 days to avoid mosquitoes.  The example shown 
> > was a
> > bed 12'x8'x3'.  Mix 1/3 gravely sand, 1/3 sandy loam, and 1/3 compost
> > (highly organic such as leaf or horse manure).  Use a mixture of 
> > native and
> > cultivated plants that like periodic flooding.
> >
> > A bluegrass lawn absorbs at 0-2-inches/hour;  2-year- native switch 
> > grass
> > at 7.5 inches/hour; and, mature forest undergrowth at 21 inches/hour.
> >
> > I'm going to try one on a gentle slope of my lawn.
> >
> > Bonnie Zone 7/7 ETN
> > Remember:  The River Raisin, The Alamo, The Maine, Pearl Harbor, 9/11
> >
> >
> >> [Original Message]
> >> From: <Cersgarden@aol.com>
> >> To: <gardenchat@hort.net>
> >> Date: 3/7/2007 12:10:52 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [CHAT] rain garden
> >>
> >> Andrea, a rain garden is a catch basin for runoff.   This is more
> > desirable
> >> than water running f/roof tops, parking lots, etc into waterways and
> > carrying
> >> all the nasty things that we do to our lawns, etc.   This is really 
> >> hot
> > in
> >> our area right now along with green roofs.
> >>      Ceres
> >>
> >>
> >> **************************************
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> >
> Island Jim
> Southwest Florida
> 27.1 N, 82.4 W
> Hardiness Zone 10
> Heat Zone 10
> Sunset Zone 25
> Minimum 30 F [-1 C]
> Maximum 100 F [38 C]
>
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