hort.net Seasonal photo, (c) 2006 Christopher P. Lindsey, All Rights Reserved: do not copy
articles | gallery of plants | blog | tech blog | plant profiles | patents | mailing lists | top stories | links | shorturl service | tom clothier's archive0
Gallery of Plants
Tech Blog
Plant Profiles
Mailing Lists
    Search ALL lists
    Search help
    Subscription info
Top Stories
sHORTurl service
Tom Clothier's Archive
 Top Stories
New Trillium species discovered

Disease could hit Britain's trees hard

Ten of the best snowdrop cultivars

Plant protein database helps identify plant gene functions

Dendroclimatologists record history through trees

Potato beetle could be thwarted through gene manipulation

Hawaii expands coffee farm quarantine

Study explains flower petal loss

RSS story archive

Re: Caladiums

What Kitty posted is right.  Actually, from the research I did for my
article on same, Caladium tubers are damaged at temps below 50F.  I
wouldn't panic tho' as soil temps are still probably around 50F even
if air temps have gotten lower for you.

I've brought my pots in for winter - sad to say:-(  I just let them
dry off; pull off the dried out foliage when I get around to it and
stick them under a table in the laundry room where they stay -
totally dry - until around late April or early May (when I remember).
 At that point, I unearth the tubers, repot them in new soil and
start watering.  Moisten the mix and then don't water too much until
you see the growth points above soil.  Once weather had gone above 60
at night, I put the pots out under the covered walk for the summer. 
So far, same 2 pots of tubers have been going for 3 or 4 years; even
the tiny tubers seem to sprout.

I have read that many Caladiums have some sort of virus that causes
the tubers to diminish in size and eventually peter out...could be;
no proof of same.

Key is keeping the tubers dry over winter and above 50F...

There's sort of a running joke on Aroid-L about handling assorted
aroid tubers...."treat it like a Caladium"; not too hilarious unless
you were at the Aroid Extravaganza in Raleigh a few years ago, but
the idea is that many aroid tubers (tropical type) can be kept over
winter dry and warm.  I do the same with my Amorphophallus tubers but
I let them stay outside until the stems collapse and then bring them
in and let them just go dry until spring.

So, Auralie, if they were mine,  and temps were getting that chilly,
I'd dig them up pronto and bring them in.  Since they were in the
ground and not pots, you can store in bags or on a shelf or you could
simply put them in a pot of potting soil and leave them in a warmish
spot (room temp.; can fluctuate between day and night but needs to be
50F or warmer).

Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
Editor:  Gardening in Shade
Shadyside Garden Designs
Current Article: Corydalis
Complete Index of Articles by Category and Date

> From: Aplfgcnys@aol.com
> My caladiums went all limp the first really cool night.  They're
not quite 
> dead - just lying
> on the ground.  Should I allow them to die completely or cut them
off now?  I 
> have never
> really tried to save caladiums before, but for reasons too
complicated to go 
> into I ended
> up with quite a lot of bulbs last spring and they have been quite
> all summer.
> Usually I just think I will get more next year, but I doubt I'll
ever buy 
> this many again, so
> perhaps should try to save these.  Just don't know how to proceed. 
> advice is
> appreciated.
> Auralie
> Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!
> http://www.hort.net/funds/

Support hort.net -- join the hort.net fund drive!

Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index

 © 1995-2017 Mallorn Computing, Inc.All Rights Reserved.
Our Privacy Statement