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Re: Seedling growth (Mike Groothuis)

Hey Bill. Let's see. The lights are on 16 hours a day with a timer. I use
those standard 40w tubes in a 2-tube fixture. I have 2 different shelves‹one
shelf has the light about 6 inches off the foliage, the other has is 3
inches or less. This is just to test the distance for better performance.
Fertilizer is Peter's Professional triple 20 @ a rate of 1/2 tsp/gal of
water about every other to every third watering. I grow my seeds in cells
from the start. I plant between 7-10 seeds per cell and then cull them in
February (I started growing them October 19). They have bee dry a couple of
times, but never have wilted.

It seems like I do exactly the same thing ear to year (for the most part)
but the seeds one year may grow great, but the following year just limp
along. Maybe that's just the name of the game.

Mike Groothuis

> Hi Mike,
> Almost forgot about this one. Let's start with some questions. How
> many hours per day do you leave the lights on? How far away from the light
> tubes are they? 40w tubes? How about fertilizer? When do you move them from
> the flats into cells? What size cells? Do you move them into larger cells
> later? Have they dried out at any time, enough that they wilted?
> Flowering early has a lot to do with species background. Laevigata
> and yingeri seedlings flower earliest and most reliably. Most seedlings with
> different backgrounds will do it occasionally. Usually flowering the first
> year slows down the growth of the seedling, so it's only a good thing if you
> want to squeeze in another generation of crosses. It may well take another
> year or two before it matures.
> .....Bill Meyer

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