RE: Any experienced Metal Halide Users

Andrew,

I have used a metal halide 1000 watt system for about ten years now.
However, all of my use has been with orchids.

Yes, heat build up is an issue, but this is controllable with a fan to
circulate the air.  I would suggest a light meter and you can measure the
intensity thus reducing any scalding of the plants leaves.

It is also a bit on the expensive side, with mine cost about $50 bucks a
month to run for ten hours a day!  Electricity is expensive in the
Northeast, so maybe it might be less in Iowa.

If you buy a metal halide system you might opt for the 400 watt version.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-hosta-open@hort.net [o*@hort.net] On Behalf
Of michael shelton
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 10:01 AM
To: hosta-open@hort.net
Subject: Re: Any experienced Metal Halide Users

This was my experience with tc plants just out of the
test tube, which should apply but maybe not.

Day length: I left them on 24/7 with no ill effect. I
found that any on/off cycle seemed to cause the plants
to attempt to go thru the whole cycle
bloom-flower-dormancy and I think you want to get as
much growth as possible.

Dormancy: After a period of time (about 9 months) they
did not die, but they did stand still. Others may have
experience to change the effect that i found. After I
found I could not keep them growing I then took these
trays outside and covered with mulch completely to a
depth of about 2 inches and waited for spring. After a
period of dormancy (I never determined how long) they
can be forced out of dormancy and start the cycle
again.

Water/mist: I potted in 2 1/2 deep pots and sat the
pots in a tray that I kept water in constantly. I've
reported many times that hosta cannot be over watered
unless you drown the crown. Periodically you will need
to leach the pot and clean the tray because of salt
buildup. Fertilizer very sparingly because the
fertilizer does not run thru and out. Your keeping
virtually all of the ingredients in the tray so what
isn't taken up by the plant will buildup in the tray.

I know how much you want to speed up the process but
you may find better results with something along these
lines.

Under lights you may not get true colors causing you
to cull seedlings improperly.

You asked for help so report back with what you find
and the results you get with whatever method you
decide on.


--- Andrew Lietzow <alietzow@myfamily.com> wrote:

> Dear Open'ers, 
> Anyone have any experience with Metal Halide lights
> for growing seedlings?   I have already discovered
> that they are hotter (no duh) by scorching some
> leaves, so I have raised them away another foot or
> so.   I know I can measure the temp at the tops of
> the leaves, and should adjust them accordingly, but
> does anyone have any recommendations for the on/off
> cycles?  
> 
> I'm thinking 16/8 but would 20/4 be better?   Any
> resources out there for commercial or hobbyist Hosta
> growers using HID lights?  Should the plants be both
> watered and misted?  I'm thinking that starting
> seedlings under flourescents, until they reach the
> 4-leaf stage should be good, but then to move them
> under MH lights from that point on.   
> 
> Also, can they go up to 22 months before requiring a
> dormancy period?   I've heard that this was true,
> but would appreciate any info or research on the
> subject.   I'm not trying to make this overly
> complicated but simply looking for links or research
> articles.  
> 
> TIA, 
> Andrew in Des Moines
>  
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CCREDUX@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 9:17 PM
> To: hosta-open@hort.net
> Cc: 
> Subject: Re: Growing seeds in ground
> 
> In a message dated 8/9/2004 1:52:37 PM Central
> Daylight Time, 
> charlie@charliecheese.demon.co.uk writes:
> 
> > You should put the question to Glen of the Pether 
> 
> You mean  Count Glen de Pether-Plant-aginet?
> 
> cc
> 
>
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