Re: [hostapix] Taxus
- To: "hosta-open@mallorn.com" , h*@egroups.com
- Subject: Re: [hostapix] Taxus
- From: B*
- Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2000 14:40:24 -0600
- References:
Hi Mary
Here is the part about wounding/crushing. I am adding the url of
cuttings for alot of woody plants. It says taxus or yews are fairly easy
to root.
If I remember right the main thing is to take them at the right time of
year for the plant you are working with for the best results. This will
make the difference between almost 100% sucess versus only a few per
cent.
http://coopext.cahe.wsu.edu/infopub/pnw0152/pnw0152.html
Bye
Bob
Wounding the basal end of the cutting often stimulates rooting of such
evergreen plants as rhododendrons and junipers,
especially if the cutting has
older wood at its base. Use the tip of a sharp knife
to make a 1- to 2-inch
vertical cut down each side of the base of the
cutting. Stripping off the lower
side branches of the cutting during its preparation
also can be considered
slight wounding. For more severe wounding on
difficult-to-root types or
larger-diameter cuttings, make several vertical cuts.
Or remove a thin slice of
bark down one or both sides of the base of the
cutting. Expose the cambium
(the one or two layers of cells between the bark and
the wood), but avoid
cutting deeply into the wood.
Wounding may stimulate rooting by promoting cell
division and more
absorption of water or applied root-promoting
chemicals, or it may remove
tough tissue that prevents outward root growth from
the cutting. Wounding is
used most often on evergreen plants, but it may be
useful on deciduous
plants.
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