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Re: Newcomer with a question or two.
- To: <r*@eskimo.com>
- Subject: Re: Newcomer with a question or two.
- From: "* A* <d*@msn.com>
- Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 09:12:01 -0700
- Resent-Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1998 09:24:43 -0700 (PDT)
- Resent-From: rose-list@eskimo.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <"Z9HQB.0.PY3.87Y9s"@mx2>
- Resent-Sender: rose-list-request@eskimo.com
-----Original Message-----
From: coneh@uswest.net <coneh@uswest.net>
>Hello to all,
>Some of you proably recognize my name from other lists we may be
>mutually on..I humbly join you here in hopes someone can answer the
>following rose questions ..I'm definitely on a learning curve where
>roses are concerned so please bear with me..
>
>I have a well establised (2-3yr)Bourbon Rose"Madame Ernst Calvat"of
>which I would like to take cutting of in the spring to multiply this
>fine rose..But it turns out its on,"Minetti"root stock and not on its
>own roots..
>
>So with this in mind would it be unadvisable to attempt cuttings on
>their own roots?
Go for it! Mdme Calvat is frequently grown on it's own roots.
>Or should I try to attain some of the same "Minetti"root stock?
Not unless you wish to practice some grafting.
>What is the advantage of using such r.stock?Disease
>prevention,vigor,hardiness?
Vigor and rapid increase of available plants are the two main reasons for
grafting. Also, certain rootstocks perform better in certain climates and
soils, so growers choose their rootstock to accomodate the conditions of
their growing grounds and the market they choose to pursue.
> (Definitely need to know about the hardy part,this is a zone
>6 sometimes 5)
>
Roses on their own roots are generally hardier than grafted roses - the bud
union is sensitive to freezing, while the roots of the stock are protected.
>It has adapted well to our climate here which is high desert and can be
>wickedly cold in the winter and horribly hot in summer,so I hope to
>duplicate the success that this one has demonstrated..
>
Sounds like Dr. Huey would be a good rootstock for your area, and is more
commonly used than Manetti. Both J&P and Weeks use Dr. Huey.
>Hope I have given you all enough info and didnt confuse the issue,as I
>really need the advise.
>If it must have the M.root stock where could I attain it?
>
Some nurseries sell rootstock, but not many. My method for producing Dr.
Huey is:
1) Plant a rose that is on Dr. Huey in a 15 gal. pot. Any rose from J&P or
Weeks will do.
2) Place the pot in a sunny location on bare ground. If the pot has drainage
holes on the side, bury the pot an inch or two to cover the drainage holes.
*DO NOT MOVE THE POT!*
3) At the end of the season, or the following spring if you live in a mild
climate, move the pot by first giving it a twist left or right. Roots from
the Dr. Huey will have grown through the drainage holes and into the ground.
You want to sever these root cleanly.
4) Mulch the area where the pot was, and keep it moist and fertilized.
Plants will develop from the roots in the ground, and you will have 1 gal.
size Dr. Hueys by the end of the next season!
-Dave-
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