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Re: was(Compost screens compared: Cantopper vs A-frame) now - grass clippings

Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html

Good question- I hate to see all that green go to waste- I usually leave it
out for a few days-it is still green but not wet-don't know if that makes
any difference- poop- now I am worried- went to all the trouble of passing
up railroad ties because of the chemicals  hope I haven't botched the
compost pile.Anyone out there know?Have only used compost for flowers and
didn't think about it in the veggie beds.How could I have been so
remiss!!!????-It is not in there  yet so there is still time .Teri
----- Original Message -----
From: Betz, Richard <rbetz@randomhouse.com>
To: 'Square Foot Gardening List' <sqft@listbot.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 6:51 AM
Subject: was(Compost screens compared: Cantopper vs A-frame) now - grass
clippings


> Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>
> Teri,
> I thought someone on this list had mentioned that you shouldn't compost
> grass clippings if they have been treated with chemicals. You might want
to
> ask the landscape people if they know if any chemicals have been used on
the
> grass. Those chemicals might start to show up in your compost! I'm not
> completely sure about this so don't stop collecting them until someone
else
> can confirm or dispute what I've just posted. Anyone know??
>
> Richard(zone 6)
> Brooklyn, NY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Teri Epp [k*@cwnet.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 4:15 PM
> To: Square Foot Gardening List
> Subject: Re: Compost screens compared: Cantopper vs A-frame
>
>
> Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
>
>
>
> Thanks Frank! Boy are you right about using safety glass and handkerchief
> while weedeating the Oak leaves- Thanks to the person who posted the info
on
> those too- Now again- Since the leaves are so acidic- WHAT should I use to
> counter act that if anything(lime?) I picked up loads of dried chicken
poop
> mixed with straw and the corncobs-type bedding from the guinea pig
/chicken
> farm around the corner. Also some fresh horse poop. Know I have to compost
> the horse poop- but would the dried chicken poop mix be ok to work into
the
> beds now and how long til I can plant? Afraid I am  out of control here
> chasing landscape people around the neighborhood begging for their lawn
> clipping and leaves! Would straw be good to add to the lasagna beds or is
it
> too hard to break down and should  I just use it for paths and in the
> compost bins?  Thanks!_teri
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank  <f*@total.net> Teuton
> To: sqft@listbot.com <s*@listbot.com>
> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2000 4:46 PM
> Subject: Fw: Compost screens compared: Cantopper vs A-frame
>
> Square Foot Gardening List - http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html
> <http://www.flinet.com/~gallus/sqft.html>
>
>
>
>
> By popular demand, here are the Cantopper instructions
>
>
>
> Dear humus aficionados:
>
> I  did a little trial a while back on some two year old vermicompost I had
> in the yard, screening it through two screens both made with 1/2 inch
> hardware cloth.
>
> One screen was an A-frame 5 feet long and 3 feet across, set up on a 45
> degree angle on a large tarp. I tossed 47 liters of compost on the screen;
> then I sifted the rejects through the Cantopper, which is a large riddle
18"
> across that sits securely on a Rubbermaid trash can 32" high, which can be
> rocked back and forth or from side to side, or in a rolling motion around
> the rim of the can.
>
> 18 liters of compost made it through the A-frame on the first toss. Of the
> A-frame rejects another 25 liters sifted through the Cantopper; 4 liters
of
> rejects remained.
>
> This compost was moist; dry compost might fare better on the A-frame, but
I
> prefer not to dry compost if at all possible, because this destroys some
of
> the microbial value.
>
> These results indicate to me that the Cantopper is tops as a backyard
> screening tool; it is light in weight, easy to use, operates cleanly and
> efficiently, and takes up little space in the garage or tool shed.
>
> Here's how to make one:
>
> Materials: one piece of plywood 2 feet by 2 feet ( I use 3/4 inch exterior
> grade)
>                     one piece of 1/2 inch hardware cloth (1/4 inch can
also
> be used), 20 " x 20"
>                     one 60" length of 6" plastic garden edging
>                     three 1" x 2" x 1/2 inch blocks of wood
>                     heavy duty 9/16" staples
>                     6 1" wood screws
>
> Tools: saber saw (aka hand jig saw), heavy duty staple gun, screw driver
>
> First, choose a trash can that is sturdy and suits your height. I prefer
the
> tall 32" can, since I am a tall guy who prefers to work standing.
>
> Now take the can and set it, open side down, centered, over your plywood
> square. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the can; this will serve as
> your reference for cutting out the inner circle of the plywood (go 1/2
inch
> inside the line) and for placing your three stops, which go on a tangent
> right at the line, after the screen is placed.
>
> Cut out the inner circle 1/2 inch inside the line. The resulting disk
makes
> an excellent single line swing; I drilled out a 3/4 inch hole in the
center
> of three of these and hung them on the maple tree in front by 3/4 inch
rope,
> which is so sturdy even I can swing on them...:-) (Wastenot, wantnot, as
> they say..)
>
> Place the screen on the hole, center it and staple it into place. Use
plenty
> of staples.  I have found it useful to take a tack hammer and nail the
> staples flush to the plywood.
>
> (My latest idea to improve it is to sandwich the screen between a thin
piece
> of plywood and the main piece, instead of stapling it, to reduce exposed
> screen edges, which can be annoying...or wrap in duct tape, the universal
> fix all....:-)"Wood always moves, Rust never sleeps, ducttape fixes
> everything!")
>
>
> Place the three stops equidistant on the drawn circle and screw them into
> place. These will hold the sifter to the rim of the trash can during
> sifting, and further secure the screen.
>
> Now turn the plywood over so that the screen is on the bottom. Put the
> edging material into place and secure it with staples, tacked in as with
the
> screen. Where the edging comes together it is useful to secure the top
part
> of it; I make a couple of holes with a drill bit and tie it  together with
> cable ties. (I now find about 8 small screws to be a little better than
> staples, if harder to place)
>
> For fellow residents of Canada, the edging I use is from Canadian Tire and
> costs about 2.50$ for 20 feet, enough for four sifters. The other
materials
> cost about eight or nine dollars, so the whole thing can be made for ten
> bucks or so in less than an hour. Not bad, eh?
>
> I hope to see my photos of the Cantopper up at the Master Composter
website,
> www.mastercomposter.com <http://www.mastercomposter.com>  , in the next
few
> months or so.
>
> I should note that the way to use the tool most ergonomically is to empty
> the trash can every three or four hoppersful of material, sometimes even
> more often, as it is easier to rock the can when it is mostly empty. It is
> also easier to empty when lighter rather than heavier!
>
> As far as screen sizes are concerned, I now have five sizes on the
property:
> 1 7/8, good for the original break up and fluffing of material in a tight
> bed; 3/4, which I may use to presift some chipped branches in the future,
> but haven't used yet; 1/2 inch, which has always been my general purpose
> compost size before the worms really started getting into my head....:-)
>
> 1/4 inch is the size that separates most of the larger worms from the
> smaller materials; it is the size Larry Martin suggests is the best
general
> purpose size in a harvester.  See his website, in the catalog, under Worm
> Harvester for more info....www.vermitechnology.com
>
> 1/8 inch screen is what will give you almost pure castings and few if any
> worms or cocoons.
>
> It should be clear that 1/2 inch is easier than 1/4 inch to sift, and 1/8
> most difficult of all, given that the holes get four times smaller with
each
> step down, so that 1/8 inch is 16 times smaller than 1/2 inch materials.
>
> Nowadays 1/4 and 1/8 inch are what I am doing most of my worm compost work
> with, since the quality of the 1/8 inch is truly excellent, and saves the
> worms for new career opportunitiies in other piles....
>
> You can dry the material some for easier sifting, or use a masonry
(harper)
> brush to clean the 1/8 screen between sifting....
>
> I just want to point out that this is an artisan-type method, inexpensive
> but somewhat labor intensive; the bigger trommel type screens are probably
> the way to go for large scale harvesting....
>
> So there you have it, the latest in Cantopper thinking, from a man who
sees
> a trash can as a many splendored thing--now wheelbarrow, now composter,
now
> sifting receptacle---and you can fill it a third full with multiple
potting
> soil ingredients, and roll it around on its side too---cheaper than one of
> them OdJob thangs....enjoy!
>
> Oh yes, you can also use a Cantopper as a garden harvest basket.....you
can
> put wet stuff in it to drain off....you can wash root crops off in
it....you
> can take a weed wacker and shred leaves into the trashcan, using the
screen
> to ensure fine size reduction....a real multi-purpose tool! (Use eye
> protection and a dust mask for that leaf shredding thing, eh?)
>
>
> Email me if you have other questions, please.
>
> Good composting,
>
> Frank Teuton
>
> January 12, 2000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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