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Re: Pepper Problems

Daniel wrote:
>
>I have noticed that several of you have commented on pepper problems
>this year. 
>
>After some research I ascertained that soil temperture is one of the
>variables that directly effects fruiting of peppers. Above 85 degrees F
>they will not polinate and effectively need a shot of viagra. 
>
>As an experiment I began to liberally foliar water in the evenings to
>the point of drenching the soil and cooling it off. After only 4 days I
>now have literally dozens of forming baby peppers. Normally I would not
>foliar water peppers, but in this instance I saw no alternative and plan
>on continuing through the production period. 

Soil temperature is a big factor in fruit development of sweet peppers.  One
way I've alway counteracted that problem was to plant all my sweet peppers
(hot peppers actually do better with hotter soils), in containers.  In
Texas, and in other hot summer regions, peppers benefit from the dance of
the pepper pots.  Place them in an area that receives full sun in the
morning and is shaded by 1 p.m. You may have to move pots every couple of
weeks as the sun swings its summer arc in the sky in order to find morning
sun only. This solves the hot soil problem.  Of course, with containers, you
have to water daily or invest in a drip systems.  Colored bell peppers like
the ivory, lavender and orange ones really produce in this manner.  It's not
unusual to harvest 15-20 fruit over a season per plant.  Another
observation--fruit set will be scanter and fruit will be smaller in
mid-summer.  But, when nights cool a bit--below 70 degrees--fruit set will
be abundant, and the fall maturing peppers will be the biggest of the
season.  Use an Epson salt foliar feeding once a month, too, for better
pepper color, size and plant vigor.  A mild pruning of foliage in mid-July
will also stimulate branching, more flowering and more fruit set in late August.
Doreen Howard
Zone 9b, soon to be Zone 5

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