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Re: Pepper Problems

Cathy

You are living in one of the most beautiful areas in the world. David
Ducovney is nuts or he just LIKES crime and pollution. Make you a deal,
you can move here to Texas and grow peppers and I will move to BC. Fair
enough ;-)?

Sounds to me like you are doing all the right things given your
location. The previous suggestion about using aluminum foil for
reflection may be an aid or if you can afford the expense, mylar film
will also work well to increase the amount of sunlight reflected to the
plants. You can also use reflective materials on the NORTH side of the
plants with the SOUTH being the reflective surface, just like they do in
the movies to make average looking short people look glamorous and
bright. 

However remember that even with cloud cover, sufficient UV and other
spectrum of light rays make the trip to the plant. Plants use much more
of the available light spectrum than we do for sustenance. Weak light
will primarily result in leggy plants with long internodes. My
internodes with copious quantities of  direct sunlight (6 hours a day
minimum) are consistently 3-4". Internodes are the spaces between
branches on a stem. This is not necessarily a negative, especially since
you are supporting the plants.

Nothing grows without photosynthesis and in most plants, photosynthesis
slows to a crawl when air temperatures go above 85 degrees on a regular
basis. Ground temperatures tend to fluctuate less than air temperatures
for obvious reasons and are more stable for a longer period of time and
fluctuate less over time (unless you have permafrost like my buddy in
Edmonton Alberta does). 

I suspect that the soil temperature problems I experience here in Dallas
are not the problem in Vancouver, though the fluctuations in soil
temperature are probably less than the seasonal variations in air temp.
It just gets butt scalding hot and stays that way for months here. The
record here in Dallas is 64 straight days when temps were OVER 100° F
back in 1980. Thank god I was in the middle east then.

To determine your soil temperature you can use a standard thermometer (I
recommend an anal thermometer as you will then be less inclined to use
it on any living mammal after you stick it in the dirt). GENTLY stick it
straight down into the soil until it is buried as deep as you can get it
(~4" - oh, and no lubrication is necessary thank you very much) and
still retrieve it. Let it sit in the soil for 15-20 minutes and then
pull it out and read it (repeat as necessary if it turns you on).

My understanding of the range of acceptable ground temperatures for
pepper growth is between 65-85° F with 70-75 being optimal for fruiting
(research from Texas A & M and University of FL). However this said, it
is only one of several factors that initiate flowering and production. 

Photoperiod - the length of sunlight to darkness ratio - is also an
important factor. I doubt if that is a serious problem in your location
despite the cloud cover. The longest sun day of the year just passed
last Sunday (my day period was 15.3 hours). You MAY be able to tease
them into blooming by reducing the amount of sunlight using a dark
plastic tent. This technique makes the plants think that winter is
coming and time to get busy, if you know what I mean and I think that
you do. 

The previous suggestion about using an epsom salt solution is also a
good one. 1 tablespoon of epsom salts per gallon of water misted on the
plants and blooms is recommended by many including the farmers almanac.
I also plant all my peppers using 3-4 match heads in the planting hole.
Peppers like the sulfur and magnesium. I also use 1 tablespoon of
powdered milk in a gallon of water to increase the calcium in the soil
for all of my nightshade plants in the first 2-3 month of growth.
Calcium aids in water aspiration to the roots - you should shake
vigorously as plants also need oxygen in the root system (I am
experimenting with adding hydrogen peroxide (H202) on a test plant in a
pot - the theory being that the extra Oxygen molecule may aid in growth
with a lower molarity by dilution). I virtually ended blossom end rot in
my tomatoes after learning THIS little trick.

I also use Tomato cages (4) and plant 1 plant per sq. ft. (9 plants per
cage) and use the gardeners master tool, panty hose, to keep them hard
trellised and immobile. The only problem with being a bachelor is that I
keep having to get new girl friends as they run out of old hosiery. They
only look at me half funny when I ask for their old undergarments.

Hope this helps. 

> How about the reverse! This is the first year for me growing peppers,
> and when I forst planted them, it was wonderful and warm. Now the
> weather has taken a turn, and it's been fairly cool and overcast here in
> Vancouver. So how do you suggest I warm up the soil so they might
> produce for me. They are in the raised bed and I've put tomatoe cages
> around them and made tents from thick plastic to see if that will help.
> Anyone?
> 
> Cathy
> ...wishing for sunshine in zone 7  :)
> 
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> >From: Advocate <advocate@flash.net>
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> >One and all
> >
> >I have noticed that several of you have commented on pepper problems
> >this year.
> >
> >After some research I ascertained that soil temperture is one of the
> >variables that directly effects fruiting of peppers. Above 85 degrees F
> >they will not polinate and effectively need a shot of viagra.
> >
> >As an experiment I began to liberally foliar water in the evenings to
> >the point of drenching the soil and cooling it off. After only 4 days I
> >now have literally dozens of forming baby peppers. Normally I would not
> >foliar water peppers, but in this instance I saw no alternative and
> plan
> >on continuing through the production period.
> >
> >I have a similar problem with my Artichokes and give them a cooling
> bath
> >every evening. Early research indicates that above 85 degrees F, they
> >get stem rot.
> >
> >Daniel (Zone 7, North Texas)
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