Hi. I am assuming their are others that are interested in this
conversation, if not let us know and we will move it off list.
I don't have any geographic features nearby that might balance temperature.
I am assuming you mean a river like El and Sandy I have. I really don't
think I have a micro climate since
I have sometimes checked the outdoor temperature when the radio/internet
says minus 40 degrees Celsius and it is indeed minus 40 or colder on my
thermometer as well. I have had rebloom on Immortality in fall before
(although the bloom didn't have time to open fully before frost, but it was
advanced enough that if I brought it in it would have opened), Sandy E has
also had Immortality bloom in the fall for her(plus others) but she is right
beside the river and most of her garden is on a big south facing hill ( I am
very envious of her hill in particular - it would be great for fruit trees).
Environment Canada keeps track of minimum/maximum temperatures - Emerson is
the nearest recording station to me if believe.
I am not sure I agree with you about the summer temperatures affecting
bloom. In my experience for my area it is more the spring temperatures that
will prevent an iris from blooming. I always have
some TB's blooming and since there are subject to the same temperature in
the summer wouldn't it be an all or none affair. A couple of years ago we
had a real nice long spring and I got TB's blooming
that have never bloomed before (actually a lot more bloom on the IB's as
well) - I think that was the same year that BJ's Starship Enterprise bloomed
as well. Or were you referring to rebloom ??
About ten years ago, we had a couple winters with very little snow and
thawing in January, but since then we have had lots of snow cover and since
I only clean up my beds in later spring (if at all), the
extra grow/weeds will trap the snow.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:41 AM
Subject: [iris-photos] Re: Northern/cold weather hardiness
This certainly helps.
I keep records of min/max temperatures of air and soil temperatures
(5-6"below surface of soil) I just checked some records. The hotest
summer we had for some time was 2007. Even though we had 5 days in a
row with max temp over 35C, we only had three days all summer when min
temp was over 18C.
The windbreak helps. Are there any geographic features nearby that
might work on balancing temperature?
I would encourage you to get a thermometer to record temperature. there
are a number of inexpensive min/max digital thermometers. The records
need to be recoded daily. There are more expensive ones that can
record data for a month and then download to a computer. You may indeed
have a micro climate wher you are. Roses can surcome to damage to
wood from temperatures or a combination of drying out plus cold. Iris
plants are tucked in nicely for winter, and if they have white mulch,
will even be more protected.
This past year I noted bud set and bloom on Queen Dorathy following 4
days of min temp over 15C. It was several weeks after before we got 7
days of min above 15C. This was followed shortly by more rebloom,
including Immortality. Immortality was primed to bloom (had a mature
leaf count) but needed the 6+ days to set bud. I also noted the sharp
increase in growth of increases co-related with the bud initiation.
Thus keeping this data will help with20the project.
Re: Northern/cold weather hardiness
Posted by: "SandraB"
Wed Apr 1, 2009 11:10 am (PDT)
Other than I tend to neglect them more than most people
would, I am not sure
what exactly I am doing differently. I don't have any iris beds right
against the house. I have TB's beds on the east, south, and west sides
the house ranging from about 3 feet from the house to about 20-30 feet
so other than wind protection I don't think they are getting any extra
from the house. It doesn't seem to make much difference where the
are planted in the beds because I have tried moving some irises like
Clarence to different beds. El says I have a hot spot - I don't know
that. I do have a Zone 4 rose -Madame Hardy) in my west bed that I
never mulched over the winter and it has lasted over five winters and
consistently. Other zone 4 plants I have tried I have lost over the
generally have just iris beds rather than a mix of irises and other
which probably is different than a lot of p
When I first started with TB's the main reason I lost irises was due to
for e.g.. pulling the dead leaves off in early spring when it was still
Since I don't do a lot of weeding/cleaning anymore I don't
lose irises to rot. I do tend to like buying from the west coast so a
of the irises I get will have five or more good sized increases by the
of year of planting, this may help since the increases will survive
main rhizome sometimes does not (usually when planted in August again
encounter the main rhizome dying). I don't plant the rhizome deeply
of my soil/rot but I have tried covering
the rhizome with a two inch mound of sand when I get the rhizomes in
August. I plant toe down because that is the end that usually comes up
the soil when you get freezing/thawing - the heel more
anchored down by the roots. I did that when I got a order from
in mid August one year and other than one extremely small rhizomes of
I didn't lose more than one and that one lasted
the winter but was extremely crowded by the others so I am not really
it is dead but since it never bloomed it may as well be.
For irises that don't bloom consistently - I think I have one of B
TB's in a SD
B bed (farther than 30 feet from the house - more like 50
I ran out of room that year) I almost always get increase instead and
one year when they do decide to bloom they I get the entire clump
As to temperature, depending on what your definition of summer is - if
are using July and August, then rarely would we not have a summer where
sometime in there there was a period of over
15 C or 59 F for six nights, conversely again rarely would we have a
where the temperatures was not less than 21C or 70F for 6 nights in a
( I could be mistaken on this but that is what I
remember). Basically, I guess you are saying we need a six day period
nights in the 60's F and that usually happens later in August although
the variability of our weather lately it could happen in July
Hope that helps answer your question.
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