Re: schizostylis coccinea
- Subject: Re: schizostylis coccinea
- From: c*@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:52:11 EDT
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You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the
day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large
trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new
home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and
shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true
light conditions. If the problem is only on the surface, it maybe diverted to a
drainage ditch. If drainage is poor where water table is high, install an
underground drainage system. You should contact a contractor for this. If
underground drains already exist, check to see if they are blocked.
French drains are another option. French drains are ditches
that have been filled with gravel. It is okay to plant sod on top of them. More
obtrusive, but a good solution where looks aren't as important, think of the
French drain as a ditch filled with gravel. Ditches should be 3 to 4 feet deep
and have sloping sides.
A soakway is a gravel filled pit where water is diverted to
via underground pipes. This works well on sites that have compacted soil. Your
soakway should be about 6'wide and deep and filled with gravel or crushed stone,
topped with sand and sodded or seeded.
Keep in mind that it is illegal to divert water onto other
people's property. If you do not feel that you can implement a workable solution
on your own, call a contractor. * The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently.
When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the
root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until
water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With
container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the
drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the
afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough
so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall.
This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants
will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they
reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip
irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture
directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden
center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which
will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference
especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for
their use.
A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged
manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and
increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of
topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it
can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better;
work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This
will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later.
Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been
established. As perennials establish, it is important to prune them back
and thin them out occasionally. This will prevent them from completely taking
over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and also will increase air
circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery
mildew.
Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed.
As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead your plant; that is, to remove spent
flowers before they form seed. This will prevent your plants from seeding all
over the garden and will conserve the considerable energy it takes the plant to
produce seed.
As perennials mature, they may form a dense root mass that
eventually leads to a less vigorous plant. It is advisable to occasionally thin
out a stand of such perennials. By dividing the root system, you can make new
plants to plant in another area of the garden or give away. Also root pruning
will stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be
successfully divided in either spring or fall. Do a little homework; some
perennials do have a preference. Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in
the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill
container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted,
to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line
when project is complete. Water well. The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is
workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that
roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the
spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or
for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in
summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more
established sized plant.
To plant container-grown plants:
Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the
plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from
the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole,
working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound,
separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but
should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly,
protecting from direct sun until stable.
To plant bare-root plants: Plant as
soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots
and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun
until stable.
To plant seedlings: A number of
perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also
start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes,
spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as
much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it
immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun
and water regularly until stable. You will often hear loam referred to as a sandy loam (having
more sand, yet still plenty of organic matter) or a clay loam (heavier on the
clay, yet workable with good drainage.) The addition of organic matter to either
sand or clay will result in a loamy soil. Still not sure if your soil is a sand,
clay, or loam? Try this simple test. Squeeze a handfull of slightly moist, not
wet, soil in your hand. If it forms a tight ball and does not fall apart when
gently tapped with a finger, your soil is more than likely clay. If soil does
not form a ball or crumbles before it is tapped, it is sand to very sandy loam.
If soil forms a ball, then crumbles readily when lightly tapped, it's a loam.
Several quick, light taps could mean a clay loam. The most important thing to consider is getting sufficient
water taken up into the cut stem. Insufficient water can result in wilting and
short-lived flowers. Bent neck of roses, where the flower head droops, is the
result of poor water uptake. To maximize water uptake, first re-cut the stems at
an angle so that the vascular system (the ""plumbing"" of the stem) is clear.
Next immerse the cut stems in warm water.
Remember when the flower is cut, it is cut off from its food
supply. Once water is taken care of, food is the resource that will run out
next. The plants stems naturally feed the flowers with sugars. If you add a bit
of sugar (1 tsp.) to the vase water, this will help feed the flower stems and
extend their vase life.
Bacteria will build up in vase water and eventually clog up
the stem so the flower cannot take up water. To prevent this, change the vase
water frequently and make a new cut in the stems every few days.
Floral preservatives, available from florists, contain
sugars, acids and bacteriacides that can extend cut flower life. These come in
small packets and are generally available where cut flowers are sold. If used
properly, these can extend the vase life of some cut flowers 2 to 3 times when
compared with just plain water in the vase. Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! |
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