Thanks. I'm not disputing anything, of course, just assembling factual data on the subject to consider in relation to my own experience. As I have grown them, I've found the germination saga of what Dr. Deno calls the "the swamp irises," considerably less convoluted than that of some other groups, provided their requirements for water, warmth-- and light-- are met.
AMW
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor W. Lambou <vwak@msn.com>
To: iris-species <iris-species@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, Feb 9, 2013 7:31 am
Subject: RE: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
To: AMW
Day length, interacting with temperature and moisture, affects the germination of seeds of many different kinds of plants. Also, many seeds need to go through a so-called after-ripening period and/or have so-called germination inhibitors removed or modified. I am not sure all what factors affect the germination of Louisiana Iris seeds, but I assume that day-length and temperature are important. I get most of my germination in October and early November regardless of when I planted them during the summer. According to Chapter 5 (Propagation of Louisiana Irises, pp. 83-84) of the âThe Louisiana Irisââ book: âIn Louisiana, seed planted in mid-summer (late July) will germinate in mid-fall (about mid-October)âMost germination will occur over a period of two or three weeks, but this may differ in other locations.â They go on say that: âIn south Louisiana little germination occurs after December, but possibly 13 to 20 percent additional germination will occur about one year after the first period of germination. And slight germination is possible another year later.â I have no reason to dispute what they are stating.
I should add that if one is planting Louisiana Iris seeds that have been subject to dry storage, I would recommend soaking them in water in a closed container for three to five day.
Vic
From: i*@yahoogroups.com [i*@yahoogroups.com?] On Behalf Of C*@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 4:28 PM
To: i*@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
Thank you. Apparently I'm not speaking clearly.
What I am trying to find out is how long does it take your freshly harvested local seeds to germinate after their immediate sowing outside.
What I am trying to determine,
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor W. Lambou <v*@msn.com>
To: iris-species <i*@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 8, 2013 3:52 pm
Subject: RE: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
You asked: when I harvest my own seed and then sow them âalmostâ immediately âwhen does the sowing occursââ In my garden and in the wild in my area, Louisiana Irises bloom mainly in April and May, although I sometimes see some blooms in late March and early June. The time of blooming varies considerable from year to year, especially in the wild, depending on weather (temperature and rainfall). I estimate that it probably usually takes from 2.5 to 3 months for the seeds to mature; however that varies considerably with species as well as variety and weather. Therefore, if we are referring to seeds grown in my garden or from wild plants in my area I would estimate sowing could be somewhere from June through early September. I emphasize that these are rough estimate and each year is different.
From: i*@yahoogroups.com [i*@yahoogroups.com?] On Behalf Of C*@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 1:17 PM
To: i*@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
So, when you harvest your own, and sow them immediately, when does that sowing occur, please?
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor W. Lambou <v*@msn.com>
To: iris-species <i*@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 8, 2013 12:20 pm
Subject: RE: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
I have grown seedling from all the five Louisiana Iris species (including giganticaerulea) and some of their hybrids in two ways. I have planted seeds almost immediately after I have harvested them in pots or have received the seed in the mail or by some other source. I cover the seeds shallowly (about  inch) with the potting mix and keep the pots moist. Most germination is in the fall, early winter and with a few germinating in early spring. I have also germinated seeds on moist paper towels placed in zip lock plastic bags. The bags should be examined often and any seeds starting to germinate removed carefully and planted in pots. Also, from time to time some water may need to be added to the paper towels to keep them moist.
In as far as I can tell Louisiana Iris seeds do not need any vernalization. Also, I recommend chipping the seed coat at the hilum end, i.e., the point where the seed was attached to the seed pod. I try to remove about 10 percent of the seed coat. I usually keep the pots and bags in the shade.
âThe Louisiana Iris, the Taming of a Native American Wildflowerâ the 2000 2nd edition from The Society for Louisiana Irises, published by Timber Press has a good chapter on the propagation of Louisiana Irises
Crawfordville, Florida USA
From: i*@yahoogroups.com [i*@yahoogroups.com?] On Behalf Of C*@aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 11:03 AM
To: i*@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
I have not grown this particular species, but I have grown several of the water loving or swamp irises from seed to bloom, including fulva in several forms, and I can offer some clues based on this experience.
First, I do not think this seed should require a period of cold--stratification, or vernalization-- to germinate. In its natural habitat, the species would not get much winter cold so it is unlikely that it will insist on it for germination.
Second, seed of most plants, and especially water plants, will want to be really well hydrated to effect germination, but not so moist that it rots. The plant would grow in a moist environment with probably a good deal of naturally decomposing organic material around it.
The seed of most swamp irises floats. It has been said that this is an aid to natural dispersal of the seed. The theory is that the seed floats and the waters take it away from the mother clump, and the tides move and finallyl it finds a place upon a bank, or in some weeds, where it stops, and there it germinates. Some water irises have interesting specialized adaptations along this line. Iris fulva has a corky seed coating which enables it to remain afloat for a long time. That sort of coating must either rot off the seed naturally through exposure to water, or be manually removed after soaking, to ensure germination,
The thought is that seeds which float like this tends to profit from strong light during the germination process. They don't need cold, but they do need light. My own experience supports this theory.
Therefore, while I do not know how exactly to raise your species, this is what I would do.
I would consider waiting until spring in your location, because the sun will be warmer and the whole process could be undertaken out of doors, which is where irises like to grow. If I could not wait, I would make sure I had a place with strong light and no cold drafts in which to raise my seedlings.
I would soak the seeds in a cup of water for about a week, changing the water every day. I would expect the seeds to float, and then to sink when fully hydrated, but that is not certain. Soak them anyway.
I would prepare a small clean pot of organic material, not too fine in texture, which drains freely. I would water it thoroughly so it would be fully hydrated, but not dripping. Some people think that having organic material around the seeds which is naturally decomposing aids germination, and that may be so with some seeds, but I'd expect that these seeds would germinate fairly quickly if the conditions were correct.
I like to use vermiculite to sowing my seeds on, but I would not do it here because you may want to water from the top sometime and you don't want the medium to float all over the seeds when you water.
I would sow the seeds on the surface of the medium, pressing them in well to make a good contact, but making sure they are exposed to some direct light.
If I was sowing outside, I'd put the pot on a table or somewhere bright and sunny where I could keep an eye on things, make sure the birds and mice don't see the seeds and eat them, and I would water them daily,I would expect to see them germinate within a month. I would then decrease the watering, but I would make sure that the pot did not dry out. When the seedlings were about an inch tall I'd pot them up into some deeper pots and start a program of fertilizing and watering. Growth would, I think, be rapid in warm weather.
If I was starting the seeds inside, I would sow them on the organic material, but cover them with a piece of clear plastic kitchen wrap, or even a sheet of glass to make sure the atmosphere around the seeds remained moist. You must be careful with glass as things can heat up very quickly under there. I would put the pot in a bright sunny area, but not in direct sun. Every day I would open the plastic wrap, or lift the glass for a few minutes to get some fresh moving air in there, which is important. You will also want to look at your seeds every day with the magnifying glass to observe their processes, and also to talk to them some. I would water as necessary to keep everything nice and hydrated. I let my water stand in the jug overnight to decrease the chemicals
If I decided at any stage of the cultural process to use artificial heat under the pot of seeds or seedlings, either a heating mat or a radiator or similar, I'd be very careful that the air in the pots did not get too hot, and the organic medium did not dry out below the surface of the pot, especially after germination, which should not take too long. Pots can look moist on top and be bone dry at the bottom. especially with bottom heat applied.
We speak about the challenges of achieving germination, but the real challenge, in my opinion, comes when the seedlings must be potted up and then encouraged to grow on lustily. I find that unless there is some good reason to rush things by starting the process inside, this growing on of the infant seedlings is always more successfully undertaken out of doors. This should be considered when deciding when to start your seeds. Louisiana irises generally tend to enjoy acid to neutral soil, a lot of water and food, warmth, and room to stretch out.
I hope you will have a response soon from someone who knows this species far better than I, but these are the suggestions I can offer. Good luck!
-----Original Message-----
From: jlccarrera <j*@yahoo.com>
To: iris-species <i*@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Feb 7, 2013 5:57 pm
Subject: [iris-species] growing Giganticaerulea
I have been grown some of beardless irises, but never tried with Louisiana Irises, Could somebody give some good clues or advices to grow this seeds to get some seedlings
Thanks
