Re: Digest Number 980
- To:
- Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Digest Number 980
- From: M* C* B*
- Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:55:32 -0500
Hi everyone. It is getting exciting! Earlier I had wondered if I should
continue irising, can't go to Dallas, etc. However today FLEA CIRCUS
raised its head. BUTTERCUP CHARM and IRIS DOLL are in bloom. plus two that
I have misplaced my planting guides for!. KIWI SLICES, PUMPKIN CENTER, and
PRIWALL? are in bloom. I have about ten buds on BLESSED AGAIN or MAUI
MOONLIGHT. I think it is BLESSED because my other MAUI doesn't have buds.
I guess I will stick it out a little longer!. The excitement is still
there. Mary Cary
-----Original Message-----
From: iris-talk@egroups.com <iris-talk@egroups.com>
To: iris-talk@egroups.com <iris-talk@egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 2:47 AM
Subject: [iris-talk] Digest Number 980
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>PERFORM CPR ON YOUR APR!
>Get a NextCard Visa, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as
>0.0% Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR and no hidden fees.
>Apply NOW!
>http://click.egroups.com/1/2121/0/_/486170/_/955006937/
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>There are 14 messages in this issue.
>
>Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. Re: Re: OT/"deep sixing"
> From: "Jan Clark" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
> 2. new to iris growing
> From: bonds@istar.ca
> 3. CULT: Nitrogen
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
> 4. CULT: Bacterial Leaf Spot
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
> 5. CULT:Borer Control and Rot Prevention
> From: Gullo <tgf@frontiernet.net>
> 6. Re: new to iris growing
> From: BigAlligator@aol.com
> 7. Re: CULT: bacterial leaf spot
> From: linda Mann <lmann@mailhub.icx.net>
> 8. Re: CULT: nitrogen
> From: linda Mann <lmann@mailhub.icx.net>
> 9. AR: Program in Oklahoma City
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
> 10. Re: CULT: Bacterial Leaf Spot
> From: RYFigge@aol.com
> 11. Re: Re: CULT: fertilizer
> From: Gerry Snyder <gcsnyd@loop.com>
> 12. MDB: SDB: TB: AB: green beards
> From: Dennis Kramb <dkramb@badbear.com>
> 13. TB: AB: Howard Shockey
> From: Dennis Kramb <dkramb@badbear.com>
> 14. Re: TB: AB: Howard Shockey
> From: Tom Tadfor Little <tlittle@telp.com>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 15:38:54 PDT
> From: "Jan Clark" <janclarx@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Re: OT/"deep sixing"
>
>>To "deep six" something was to bury it thoroughly and finally and >without
>>resurecting it, even for discussion.
>
>Sounds more feasable than the six fathoms explanation.
>I don't feel anywhere near so ignorant, after asking everyone I saw
>yesterday, if they knew the term. None had, and most suggested it might be
a
>sporting term of some sort, or something crude.
>
>>But shall I tell you about the 1901 flood that wiped out the town and
>>brought the bodies to the surface.. no??? I LUV the old stories and
>>those that are STILL being created down there.
>>Carolyn Schaffner in Buffalo, NY
>
>Best not Carolyn, or I'll tell you about the cat we buried 6 times.
>Cheers, Jan in Aus.
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 23:14:08 -0000
> From: bonds@istar.ca
>Subject: new to iris growing
>
>Thanks to everyone who replied
>
>I will be living just north of Toronto, Ontario, zone 5, I think
>
>The soil is "new subdivision clay" and I was going to simply add
>triple mix, peat moss, and aged cattle manure to prepare a number of
>beds, but was wondering if there was anything else I should add for
>iris - a bit of sand for drainage?
>
>I found McMillen's Iris who sell bare root iris' located at
>www.execulink.com/~iris/ Can you direct me to other suppliers
>
>With it being new beds I am also toying with having raised beds to
>allow for an earlier growing season. Can I do this with Iris as well?
>
>I have only been a member here for a couple of days and really enjoy
>the comraderie
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 19:24:46 -0400
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
>Subject: CULT: Nitrogen
>
>Message text written by Linda Mann>
>
>>
>Has anybody experimented with different sources of nitrogen for their
>irises? <
>
>Five adjacent beds, site chosen to provide similar shade and
>wind-protection, prepared identically except for the type of fertilizer
>used. All manures were aged. All additives were mixed into the layer that
>would become the root zone, then the beds were topped off with 4" of native
>soil.
>
>Cow, horse, pig, and rabbit manure went into four beds [one type per bed,
>of course] and chemical fertilizer in the fifth. Application rate for the
>commercial fertilizer determined by testing the soil. Application rates
>for the manures then computed usingequivalency tables in Ag bulletins.
>
>The horse manure was so much more effective than anything else I'd have to
>dig through the archives to jog my memory as to what came in second.
>
>But then, the old-timers already knew that.....
>
>Sharon McAllister
>73372.1745@compuserve.com
>In Southern New Mexico, where micro-climates defy translation into USDA
>zones.
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 19:24:49 -0400
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
>Subject: CULT: Bacterial Leaf Spot
>
>Message text written by Bill Shear:
>
>>
>It appears that there is no good immediate remedy for bacterial leaf spot
>but drier weather, though I think some people have tried agricultural
>antibiotics. This I am loath to do because it is a quick way to select for
>antibiotic resistance in the environment, something we don't need more of.
>
>Does anyone have any more ideas?<
>
>My last-ditch remedy for iris rots that don't respond to conventional
>treatments is akin to the pioneer family's use of bourbon:
>
>Gunshot or knife wound? Disinfect with bourbon.
>
>Upset stomach with fever? A shot of bourbon to kill the germs.
>
>Sore throat & cough? Ditto. Dilute for children with equal parts honey and
>citrus juice. [A great way to turn kids OFF the taste of alcohol for
>life!]
>
>Now that I've placed this in the context of folk remedy rather than
>something tested scientifically -- for rot of unknown origin I treat my
>iris with something that sometimes helps, but never seems to hurt: Liquid
>Chlorox:
>
>If it involves only leaves, I clear away the affected ones and daub Clorox
>onto the wounds. If the rhizome is involved, I clear away soil & rotted
>portions to expose firm rhizome, then pour Clorox on it. Allow to dry.
>Leave exposed in spring or fall, provide shade protection in the summer. I
>suspect that the Clorox also serves to release micronutrients from the soil
>because clumps so treated tend to out-perform their neighbors the next
>year.
>
>Here, such rot appears to be stress-related. It is much more prevalent in
>TBs than in arils or arilbreds. The latter are quite at home, but TBs
>require more water and better protection from the sun to survive -- much
>less to bloom.
>
>Sharon McAllister
>73372.1745@compuserve.com
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 20:18:34 -0400
> From: Gullo <tgf@frontiernet.net>
>Subject: CULT:Borer Control and Rot Prevention
>
>Hello Everyone,
>
> With all the talk recently on list regarding less toxic borer
>control and methods of rot prevention, I thought that I should repost 2
>earlier messages regarding both topics.
>
>On Borer Control:
>
>I first heard about this method of borer control
>in the
>January 1998 AIS bulletin. The title of this article was "Sand and
>Soap" written
>by Marie Gebert. In the article she presented the following advice
>'use a
>mixture of one half cup of Murphy's Oil Soap to one gallon of
>water.Spray on the
>iris leaves weekly ( or after a rain ) from early May to late July.
>This should
>be used after any other sprays'. I use the soap that comes in the
>refill
>bottles not that which comes in the spray bottles which is already
>diluted. I
>feel that a thorough garden cleanup (very late fall or very early
>spring ) is
>also very important to make borer control even more effective. I
>have been using
>this method of borer control for the past 2 seasons with great
>success. I only
>find a very small number of borers that manage to survive the
>spraying, which I
>promptly squish. One could probably combine the oil soap treatment
>and
>beneficial nematodes ( alternate sprayings ) and achieve even more
>complete
>protection. With just 2 sprayings last season I only found a dozen
>or so
>borers. Marie, in her article, mentions that she and others in her
>area
>(northeastern Connecticut) have been using it to great effect for 5
>seasons (as
>of 1998). I hope that I have explained the process clearly for you.
>If you have
>further questions please let me know. I know from personal
>experience how
>damaging those iris borers can be. I don't believe in using harsh
>chemical
>treatments to control pests or other problems, so Murphy's Oil Soap
>has been
>quite a help. I hope that the Murphy's is of help to you and good
>luck.
>
>Your climate will dictate how early you need to start spraying. Some
>years
>the first of May is early enough, but lately here I have needed to
>start
>even earlier, usually mid to late April. If you wait till the borers
>hatch
>then it will be to late, at least to stop the early ones. I won't
>use harsh
>chemicals, but for those who do I would suggest trying a test plot
>for the
>Murphy's to see if it is as effective as chemical treatments. I know
>of a
>number of people who use chemicals like Cygon only out of
>desperation.
>
>On Using Aspirin:
>
>regarding the
>use of aspirin, so here is a summary. For those who are AIS members,
>an
>article in the July 1999 bulletin by Adam Fikso ( p.63 "A solution
>for Erwinia"
>) details his use of aspirin with irises. He pulled much of his
>information
>from botany journals which describe a growth of research with
>salicylic acid.
>Salicylic acid is said to prompt a defense reaction in the plants
>treated with
>it, which then helps the plant use it own protective mechanisms when
>it comes
>in contact with certain pathogens. Adam describes Salicylic acid's
>role as
>"activating other aspects of the plant's physiology and certain genes
>which
>together function to make the plant immune to further invasion by
>that
>pathogen". As for concentrations he used " two 325-mg nonbuffered
>aspirin
>tablets per gallon of tap water as a soil drench " which he applied
>twice in
>the fall " after planting in mid September and again a week later"
>and again
>the following spring " after the last snow ". By stimulating the
>plant's own
>defense response salicylic acid can help protect plants against
>bacterial,
>viral, and fungal pathogens. Of particular interest, is the fact
>that Adam has
>had tremendous results with arils and arilbreds, which are reputed to
>be more
>susceptible to some of these pathogens.
>
>
> I do believe there are effective, environmentally friendly ways to
>successfully grow irises. The past 2 seasons, since I have been using
>the Murphy's, have been outstanding. This will be the first year trying
>the Aspirin, but I have read a good many journal articles based on
>scientific research that suggest that Aspirin can supercharge a plant's
>defense mechanisms. I think growing rebloomers and so many seedlings
>that have rebloomers in their parentage helps as well.
> If anyone has had a great many losses due to borers or rot then
>either of these treatments might be worth a try. Good luck to all.
>
>Michael Gullo
>West Walworth, New York, USA
>zone 6
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 20:29:56 EDT
> From: BigAlligator@aol.com
>Subject: Re: new to iris growing
>
>In a message dated 4/5/00 7:15:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bonds@istar.ca
>writes:
>
><< I will be living just north of Toronto, Ontario, zone 5, I think >>
>
> Any of the bearded Irises, dwarf or tall, will do fine there. Also,
you
>could grow Siberian Irises, Japanese Irises, Iris pseudacorus, Iris
>virginica, Iris versicolor, and possibly a few Louisianas.
>
>Mark A. Cook
>BigAlligator@aol.com
>Dunnellon, Florida USA in frosty USDA Zone 8b.
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 22:00:19 -0400
> From: linda Mann <lmann@mailhub.icx.net>
>Subject: Re: CULT: bacterial leaf spot
>
>> Here, such rot appears to be stress-related.
>
>Here also - hence greater rot incidence with heavy rain and heat after
>some drought, and after freeze damage. I don't see the pattern of rot
>that Bill Shear describes very often, except in freeze damaged foliage,
>when it can be severe. The extension person who talked to our local
>club a few years ago said that was the same organism as bacterial soft
>rot, but I don't know - seems like the leaf mush rot isn't stinky, as I
>recall. It was still below freezing late in the morning today, so there
>may be some of this in coming weeks for me to study <g>
>
>Linda Mann east Tennessee USA
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 22:06:20 -0400
> From: linda Mann <lmann@mailhub.icx.net>
>Subject: Re: CULT: nitrogen
>
>Thanks Sharon, for the recap on your manure experiments and others for
>their fertilizer experiences.
>
>I was actually thinking about urea vs nitrate - urea has to be converted
>to nitrate to be used by plants (and to leach out). Maybe the nitrogen
>in osmocote is urea?
>
>In any case, it continues to fascinate (and amaze) me that so many
>completely different cultural treatments grow healthy irises (and, of
>course, vice versa).
>
>Linda Mann east Tennessee USA
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 22:50:07 -0400
> From: Sharon McAllister <73372.1745@compuserve.com>
>Subject: AR: Program in Oklahoma City
>
>I'll leave posting the details of time & place for OKC folks in the know --
>but I talked with Lu Danielson this evening and have a tidbit to share
>about her upcoming program there.
>
>Her bloom is at the stage she WILL be able to cut stalks, wrap them for
>transport, and have specimens there for display -- so this will not be an
>ordinary slide show!
>
>Sharon McAllister
>73372.1745@compuserve.com
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 23:00:59 EDT
> From: RYFigge@aol.com
>Subject: Re: CULT: Bacterial Leaf Spot
>
>Shirley, your folkttale had me all agog with expectations of hearing that
you
>sprinkled diluted bourbon on rot! What a comedown to chlorox! Rosalie nr
>Baltimore ryfigge@aol.com
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 20:07:42 -0700
> From: Gerry Snyder <gcsnyd@loop.com>
>Subject: Re: Re: CULT: fertilizer
>
>linda Mann wrote:
>>
>> .... Nitrogen in the form of nitrate is highly soluble and
>> can leach out of the soil quickly....
>>
>> Has anybody experimented with different sources of nitrogen for their
>> irises?
>
>I have certainly heard and read that organic nitrogen (ammonium
>something-or-other) is capable of burning because of being available too
>rapidly, but that mineral nitrogen (nitrate) was much slower to dissolve
>and seldom dangerous in any concentrations (in our sandy soil, that is).
>
>Any chance you flip-flopped the two kinds?
>
>Gerry, hoping to have a few stalks for Saturday's show
>--
>g*@loop.com
>Gerry Snyder, AIS Symposium Chair
>Region 15 Ass't RVP, JT Chair
>Member San Fernando Valley, Southern California Iris Societies
>in warm, winterless Los Angeles
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 23:59:40 -0400
> From: Dennis Kramb <dkramb@badbear.com>
>Subject: MDB: SDB: TB: AB: green beards
>
>Is there such a thing as an iris with green beards? Or I guess a better
>way to ask the question is what iris has the greenest beard?
>
>Dennis Kramb; dkramb@badbear.com
>Cincinnati, Ohio USA; USDA Zone 6; AIS Region 6
>http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/home.html
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 13
> Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 00:06:11 -0400
> From: Dennis Kramb <dkramb@badbear.com>
>Subject: TB: AB: Howard Shockey
>
>I was looking through Woodland Iris Garden's catalog and saw some TB intros
>(such as Nordic Ice) that were from Shockey. Is this Howard Shockey? Did
>he do many TBs? I've only ever known him for his arils & arilbreds.
>
>Dennis Kramb; dkramb@badbear.com
>Cincinnati, Ohio USA; USDA Zone 6; AIS Region 6
>http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/home.html
>
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>Message: 14
> Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 21:47:52 +0000
> From: Tom Tadfor Little <tlittle@telp.com>
>Subject: Re: TB: AB: Howard Shockey
>
>At 04:06 AM 4/6/00 , you wrote:
>>I was looking through Woodland Iris Garden's catalog and saw some TB
intros
>>(such as Nordic Ice) that were from Shockey. Is this Howard Shockey? Did
>>he do many TBs? I've only ever known him for his arils & arilbreds.
>
>Hi Dennis.
>
>Yes, Howard did some first-class TBs, Nordic Ice among them. They haven't
>gotten too much "press" outside New Mexico, but are well worth trying out.
>
>Cheer, Tom
>
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Tom Tadfor Little tlittle@telp.com
>Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA
>Telperion Productions http://www.telp.com/
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get a NextCard Visa, in 30 seconds!
1. Fill in the brief application
2. Receive approval decision within 30 seconds
3. Get rates as low as 2.9% Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR
Apply NOW!
http://click.egroups.com/1/975/0/_/486170/_/955040218/
------------------------------------------------------------------------
