Re: CULT: SIB: From Seed?


From: HIPSource@aol.com

In a message dated 2/15/00 12:26:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
pyrite@clarityconnect.com writes:

<<  I'm starting Siberian Irises from seed.  I'm a cutflower grower with a 
heated hoophouse greenhouse, so I can offer the seed some controlled 
surroundings... Any advice on this project?  Easy?  Difficult?  Best planting 
media? Germination length and temp?  Light or dark to germ? >>

Hey, Rose, welcome to the list.

I'm right far south of you so I'm not going to address when to line out your 
seedlings, although I will offer you what I know about germination of 
Siberians, of which I've done several very successful batches. 

It should be said that like the afficianados of any other genus we on this 
list have differing ideas about the best way to approach iris seed 
germination, and you will probably get several answers here. It must be 
remembered that all irises do not require the same conditions for 
germination, but with some of them several methods work.

Here is what I know about Siberians. I developed my own system after reading 
Norm Deno's books on germination, with which you may be familiar, and through 
personal experience. I am in Zone 7, Virginia. 

Siberians profit from a pre-soak to rehydrate the seed and leach germination 
inhibitors, they profit from light on the seeds, and they germinate at warm 
temperatures. No need for stratification and stratification does not 
measurably inhance germination rates. Most seed if it is fresh has a high 
rate of germination although there may be some empty seed coats.

Method: Soak the seed for about 5-7 days in warm tap water, changing the 
water daily. Prepare a container of sterile medium or vermiculite which is 
large enough to contain the seeds when they are planted one inch apart. 
Smooth the surface of the medium and water from the bottom until it is 
thoroughly wet. Let drain until no longer dripping. With an implement like a 
pencil with an eraser on it, make small depressions about three eighths of an 
inch deep in the smooth, moist medium. Into each place a hydrated seed. Press 
slightly to ensure contact with the medium, but do not cover seed with 
medium. When all the seeds are sown, cover the whole thing with a sheet of 
plastic film or transparent plastic cover to retain moisture. Place in a warm 
place with bright light but not in direct sun. Expect germination in two to 
six weeks and expect the germination rate to follow a regular curve. Any 
seeds which mold at the umbilicus are dead and may be removed with tweezers. 
Since these are monocots, when they germinate they will look like a tiny 
little iris. Be careful not to let them dry out or get too wet at any point, 
especially after the root emerges. Remove wrap gradually as germination 
starts, leaving it loosly in place until the haft way point, then removing it 
altogether. If you see a seed with a root waving around in the air, fiddle it 
with a toothpick until it is reorientated toward the medium. Depending on 
which medium you are using, you can pot up quite early, like at about an inch 
or two, or wait a bit, but they profit from being given a good root run since 
a lot of the action is happening there. Once they are up and running they 
will grow pretty rapidly. I would not line out myself before the first fall 
and if you can hold them over the first winter in quart pots in a cold 
greenhouse, so much the better.  

Hope this helps.

Anner Whitehead
HIPSource@aol.com

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