Re: OT-CHAT: Iris fragrance


From: Haggstroms <hagg@alaska.net>

> From: hipsource@aol.com
>
> When I hear the term iris in relation to perfumery I associate it not
with
> the iris blooms but with orris root, which is made from the dried and
cured
> rhizomes of any of several bearded irises, but most often I. pallida.
This
> has traditionally been used as a fixatif for other essences, that is,
it
> helps ensure the longevity of the fragrance of other ingredients.

Yes, I've heard of the fixative (fixatif?) value of  orris root, which
is why I
had doubts about whether the fragrance, or the fixative qualities of the
iris
were being referred to in the Tiffany brochure. At first I assumed orris
root was
being used, but the leaflet seems to hint at its use as a fragrance
component, so
I thought someone on the list might have this aspect of the iris scoped
out
pretty well.

> Clarence
> offered an interesting receipe for prepared orris once on the list and
you
> may wish to check the archives for this.

A nice thing to have in the archives.....I assume setosa has been tried
in this
manner without success, but  I'll probably be trying it anyway. It's
sounds quite
interesting to try.

> If I am correct nose-wise in
> identifying the role of iris in some classic fragrances, I would
describe
> that note as soft, enfolding rather than ambient, and somewhat
powdery, a
> fragrance in a minor rather than a major key, like sandlewood, a grey
chiffon
> sort of fragrance, nothing sharp or frisky about it.

Sounds like a really nice note..... perhaps its usage mellows all of the
strong
florals in this perfume. I suppose I assumed there was a certain
fragrance that
spelled 'Iris', as there is in the rose, but it doesn't seem to be the
case.
Someone mailed me off-list and said she'd read (she's trying to recall
the
source) that a specific iris is being grown somewhere (France?) for its
fragrance
usage in perfume.

> As I recall L'Heure Bleu and Je Reviens are supposed to be heavy on
iris.
>  I'd also say check the neighborhood herbalist
> for orris root, but frankly the stuff I've sniffed at the local one
doesn't
> have much kick left to it.

Now we're on to something here - L'Heure Bleu used to be a favorite when
I was
younger, but it was difficult to find. I had no idea iris figured into
its makeup.
I've had the same experience with orris root at the local herb store,
but I just
figured it was because I lived in an area where traditionally old,
outdated
goods were a somewhat common thing.
Kathy Haggstrom
Anchorage, AK/USA/zone 3




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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