Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox

The one time I had rot on a rhizome and tried to save it. I scraped it with my thumbnail and planted it with the effected part as far off the ground as possible letting it dry out. That was Edith Wolford. It worked. I also do not ever fill in dirt where there is a break in the rhizome until it has dried out and scabbed over for at least a month. I just leave a hole on that side until fall. Then I push soil under the sticking out part.
Maybe that is why I do not have much trouble.
Wendy
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com 
  To: iris-talk@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox


  In a message dated 2/13/01 2:51:33 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
  jreeds@microsensors.com writes:

  << 
  I have been told to use bleach on rot (scoop out all the bad stuff, and
  splash a little on the raw surface).  I used to do it when I didn't want to
  dig a clump when a couple of rhizomes were suffering.  Never again!  I lost
  a number of clumps which lost all vigor and pretty much all their roots;
  they just faded away.  The rot was about the only thing that kept spreading.

  I tried a different approach.  Most organisms will not thrive except within
  a specific enviromnent.  PH can be critical.  After thoroughly scooping out
  the yuck, I use my fingertip to rub in a little powdered cement mix or lime
  to cauterize, sterilize, and seal the wound.  Then I wash my finger so I
  won't lose too much skin.  Works great for me!  Of course, I guess this
  wouldn't be a good idea for japanese iris, but I can't grow those anyway.
    >>

  This would explain why the undiluted Chlorox works so well in southern NM.  
  After the treated rhizome dries out, I cover it with native sand -- which has 
  a naturally high pH.

  Sharon McAllister

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