Re: Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox

Hi Sharon,
I will add one other thing, I live in a heavily wooded area and have few areas that receive full sun. I usually reserve those for daylilies as they are pickier about the amount of sun they receive. That would make a lot of difference also. I have not ever considered iris as needing more thatn a half a day to bloom well and some of my iris do not get that much. After reading all this I would say a certain amount of shade to keep a rhizome from cooking, including sand, is important. Here if  rhizomes are set very deep they die quickly. We have relatively high humidity even on the hottest of days.
Wendy
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: arilbredbreeder@cs.com 
  To: iris-talk@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 1:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [iris-talk] Re: CULT: Undiluted Clorox


  In a message dated 2/14/01 1:24:46 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
  lilylvr@kansas.net writes:

  << The one time I had rot on a rhizome and tried to save it. I scraped it 
  with my thumbnail and planted it with the effected part as far off the ground 
  as possible letting it dry out. That was Edith Wolford. It worked. I also do 
  not ever fill in dirt where there is a break in the rhizome until it has 
  dried out and scabbed over for at least a month. I just leave a hole on that 
  side until fall. Then I push soil under the sticking out part.
  Maybe that is why I do not have much trouble.
  Wendy >>

  Another excellent example of WHY we should seek cultural advice from those 
  who live nearby or at least garden under the same general conditions.  

  In southern New Mexico, gardening on a mesa, the most effective treatment for 
  rot in TBs is to scrape & apply Clorox in the evening and cover with dry sand 
  the following morning.  That way, the rhizome has already developed a 
  rudimentary callus that can solidify under the sand's protection and the 
  rhizome itself is never exposed to the mid-day sun.  If that happens, it 
  cooks.  [Yes, I followed the leave-it-exposed advice until I learned that it 
  just doesn't work here -- and TBs are by far the most rot-prone types I've 
  attempted to grow.]

  Although our respective treatments would mean sure death in each other's 
  locations, I think that taken together they identify the crucial factors for 
  slow-growing cultivars:

  1.  The rotted portion must be excised.
  2.  The wound must be treated.
  3.  A callus must form.
  4.  The treated rhizome must be protected from causal factors.

  Some cultivars, of course, increase rapidly enough to stay ahead of bacterial 
  rot -- but for others the key difference is in the causal factors.

  Heat & humidity, in combination, provide a favorable environment for 
  bacterial rot in living rhizomes.  Excising the diseased portion and keeping 
  the healthy part as dry as possible is not only the logical treatment, but 
  apparently a quite effective one.

  Excessive sun exposure, however, bakes rhizomes.  Ever planted a baked 
  potato?  The very idea is ludicrous -- but a baked rhizome is just as viable! 
  Rot sets in because the tissue is already DEAD.  Prevention requires 
  covering rhizomes with at least an inch of sand.  [If you aren't already 
  familiar with the benefits of sand mulch, just try digging through it with 
  your fingers and you'll quickly understand the temperature differential from 
  surface through 1, 2, 3, & 4 inches of sand!]

  Sharon McAllister

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