Re: CULT: Leaf Removal & Soft Rot

In a message dated 2/13/2003 10:58:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
redear@infinet.com writes:


> " High pH" is a confusing term for me. Bill explains what side of the fence
> he is sitin on. >Higher pH beds (pH 10 and up)<. High pH to me could be 
> high
> in acid or high in basic. Is it because of all the pH charts I have seen
> Basic is at the top and Acid at the bottom?

The pH scale goes from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is by definition neutral. Zero to 7 
are acid and pH above 7 is alkaline.

The scale itself is not linear it is logarithmic. Meaning a soil with a pH of 
6 is a 100 times more acidic than a soil with a pH of 5. Relatively small 
changes on the pH scale represent substantial changes in acidity or 
alkalinity.

Soil pH is the most important single influence over the availability of plant 
food elements to growing plants and thus the efficiency with which they make 
use of fertilizers. Too, it is the easiest soil characteristic that a 
gardener can economically measure.

Caution: A soil pH of 10 and above is not recommended for routine iris 
culture. While the plants survive and grow, increase is significantly slower 
than at lower pH levels.

> I have no chemistry background. I do have years of pH experience with
> running a lithographic printing press and having aquariums. Both require a
> practical knowledge of pH.
> 
> I have never tested my soil. What ever I am doing works pretty good.
> " If it ain't broke don't try to fix it"

I have no chemistry background either. I believe soil tests are the single 
best investment a gardener makes. There seems a high degree of false economy 
implied when placing $20 irises in a bed of questionable nutrient content 
when soil tests here cost only $4.00. Sadly, I am often lax and have the test 
done after the fact-Sometime even when the irises foliage is turnin' yellow 
in protest.

Smiles from lazy, procrastinatorial (a new word?), and embarrassed,

Bill Burleson 7a/b
Old South Iris Society

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