HYB:Seed starting & markers CULT: Garden Move
iris@hort.net
  • Subject: HYB:Seed starting & markers CULT: Garden Move
  • From: &* <p*@hotmail.com>
  • Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2010 10:21:31 -0700
Hi All,
Debra Scott here in Timnath CO

I've enjoyed the topics this past week.

*******Seed starting*****
Last winter I wrote asking about how to start seeds indoors. Thanks to input from you all, I followed the process outlined on the Can. Iris Society's website. I had a few seeds sprout last season but learned by trial & error that even if sprouted they will rot before green leaves come up if placed in a warm area as I do with my daylily seeds.
I have one bedroom in the house that remains cooler. I've not measured but I would guess it drops to around 60 or even high 50s at night and never reaches more than 63 in the winter. I had only 5 seedlings sprout green that survive last season (of around 700 seeds). That was discouraging but I left the unsprouted seeds in the fridge as I know that often iris may sprout in the second season.
Well, sure enough, I looked at the bags in the fridge last week and found many had roots. I estimate that I potted up 150-200 seedlings last weekend and to my delight discovered the first green leaves appearing this weekend. Once the majority are sprouted I will move them to a shelf with artificial lights were it will be a bit warmer.
I planted them very densely, as many as 20 per 16oz plastic cup. I noted from those that survived last season that they grow slow enough that this density should be OK until they are transplanted to the ground.
These are mostly "prolific, hardy & floriferous historic" x "prolific, hardy, & floriferous modern " (often name unk) crosses which were largely made for the learning experience. Still, I am excited to think of the potential outcomes.
How long is typical from sprout to 1st bloom in z5 gardens? (of course I know that depends somewhat on culture & how early they are transplanted too) 

*******Markers********
Since my daylily hybridizing is moving along faster I'll speak from that experience. Because my hybridizing operation is very small I find it reasonable to mark my crosses with the same method I use for named cultivars in my garden. I use Paw-Paw metal markers labeled with a Brother P-Touch (Their TZ tape is durable for 3-5 years outdoors). The markers are first labeled with yr-cross#. Then as time permits I review my records & add to the labels with an abbreviation of the parents in the cross.
As individual seedling's bloom is recorded I use white plastic knives marked on both ends using a sharpie to mark the individual seedlings. I face the marking away from direct sunlight but if top gets broken off or fades, the writing that is on the piece under the soil is still in tact.
When I photograph seedling bloom I follow each flower with a photograph of the seedling number on plastic knife. The knives are labeled by yr-cross#-sdlg#. I also use this when recording notes on growth habits, etc.
If I continue this obsessive "hobby", especially if I secure land for field growing, I can see that at some point this method of labeling will no longer be practical and I will look into other options such as the mini-blind method. 

*******Garden Move******
Last spring (the last week of April) I purchased the stock from a former daylily & iris display garden which is located about 40 minutes drive away from me (too far for daily commute with a day job & young children in school). The stock is currently located on community garden space. Because I live on a city lot, I secured plots in a community garden down the street from me to hold the excess while I continue to look for field space with irrigation to purchase or lease. Fortunately having rented space on both ends I can mostly take my time on the move because I am on my own for the whole project. The only time that became an issue was when I needed to clear out space that I was giving up at the old garden and the winter was approaching while I still had 2 more rows to get moved (including one huge row of spuria iris that had grown together into one gigantic 5' x 25' clump.
Having prepared the place where the plants will go in is a big help however, with a move over time it can also be an issue. I struggled with the plots on the new community garden all summer because they are organic and would not allow me to use Round Up to clear the weeds. I had to hand weed the entire plots of knee high weeds 3 times. Eventually I was able to get them weeded/amended/tilled & to put down black weed barrier fabric to keep the new stuff from sprouting up. I expect this coming season will provide a faster move, in part because of this preparation, in part because I took the time to photograph & record all blooms last season for ID & to create a complete inventory, and in part because I'll get an earlier start this year.
In my case the existing garden is heavily infested with nut-sedge, something the new gardens have never seen, so I have to completely divide & wash down each plant before transplant. So far, so good. I've only seen a couple tiny pieces come into my home garden that I now need to dig the soil to prevent it spreading.
On a really good weekend when I had all day to dig & wash I could get about 20-25 clumps processed and ready to bring to the new gardens. I put them in plastic grocery bags, put the labels in the bag with them, then transport them home. I found that if I open the tops of the bags for air I can keep them in the bags for even a couple of weeks if necessary. I water them every few days and let it drain back out. I found it takes about 1/2 day to get that many planted in prepared location on the other end.
I started the last week of April and continued moving iris through bloom, then focused on daylilies after that until 2 wks before 1st frost. I got about 1/2 of the move completed last season.
I will start with iris first again this season, probably in Mar or as soon as the soil can be worked and the plants begin to show new spring growth. 

Blessings All,
Debra 
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