HYB - TB: Reg. 7 Irisarian Reprints #14
- To: Multiple recipients of list <i*@rt66.com>
- Subject: HYB - TB: Reg. 7 Irisarian Reprints #14
- From: "* D* S* <g*@ccast.com>
- Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 18:58:04 -0700 (MST)
> A series of articles reprinted from the Region 7 IRISARIAN with myself as
> Editor in 1990-91. [Gary Sides--Jan. 1998: Posted to Iris-L]
>
WEST COAST PHILOSOPHY
Vernon Wood Pinole, CA
My interest in irises began about 30 years ago. At the time, I was growing
tuberous begonias from seed but was totally unable to control the mildew
problems prevalent in the Bay Area. Pinole is 11 miles north of Oakland
and is a little warmer but still has lots of fog which causes mildew. Then
it became either irises or orchids and the irises won (or lost) because
orchids are six years from the time of making the cross and I didn't want
to wait that long to see my first seedlings.
I believe you should have some goal (even if slight) in your crosses and my
original goal was to create a black black iris with a bright red beard.
This was pursued for over ten years with each succeeding generation getting
further away from my goal. So I began pink breeding using David Hall's
pink seedlings with things like ANNETTE, SNOW FLURRY, MAY HALL, CHRISTMAS
TIME, FROST AND FLAME, etc., which with each succeeding generation have
been line-bred up until this day.
Occasionally you will have to outbreed to bring in desirable features which
your line may be missing. At present, I would like to bring in a wider
more ruffled form keeping the deep pink with minimum salmon shade. From
these lines you will always get some whites with red beards or lavendars.
You could start another line with these.
I have room for about 100 seedlings plus 100 or so named varieties. These
will split about 60-40 in favor of the TB's. From 200-400 crosses will be
tried each year of which 60-70% will take. From these thousands of
seedlings having room for only about 6-700, I plant only the most vigorous.
It is best to try to plant a minimum of 50-100 of each cross to really
explore the cross. This is a problem when you have too many seedlings. I
just can't resist trying to cross nearly every flower that opens.
If the seedlings can be planted out (in this area) in early April and
pushed with monthly fertilizing and plenty of water you get over 50% bloom
the following year. Probably not over 5-10% will be worth holding over.
1-2% of the seedlings may be worth introducing.
In general, I do not save unbloomed seedlings from any cross unless the
ones which have bloomed are better than average. Most crosses will be all
100% DOGS. we should have a dog section in our regional meetings.
In selecting seedlings, I believe branching and bud count are two of the
most important qualities. Mine will have to have a minimum of seven buds,
two branches, spur and terminal. The form should be wide and symmetrical.
They should also have 3-5 increases per rhizome per year.
Keep in mind that the so-called "People's Iris" may violate most of the
judging standards but will still sell like mad. I don't like rough hafts,
but have seen some so rough you would break an axle driving over them.
They can still sell like mad and even win a few AIS awards.
My preference will always be for irises having the qualities mentioned
previously plus wide form, ruffling, clean color, no haft markings and that
indescribable quality called "pizazz". The really good ones will make
themselves known the first time you see them.
At present, my only seedling of real interest (to me) is 85-24 which has
been named SILVER FOX and will be introduced in 1990. It goes all the way
back to my original pink crosses from which a red-bearded white line was
developed. It is a slightly lilac shaded white with a tangerine beard
ending with a 1/4" violet tip. It has very nice form which comes largely
from Bob Brown's MONACO and CLOUDFIRE which are both in its pedigree.
Some very nice blends are coming from Bob Brown's COLLAGE. COLLAGE is
vigorous, has excellent branching and bud count. It will throw all kinds
of blends when crossed with almost anything.
If I were to start over again, I would get the best available in regard to
form, vigor, bud count, branching, etc. and cross them all together
regardless of color. Select the best of these and cross them. Sooner or
later something will pop out as a line to be explored further.
