Re: OT-BIO: Janet T. US Zone 2/ Can Zone 3
- Subject: Re: OT-BIO: Janet T. US Zone 2/ Can Zone 3
- From: o*
- Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:08:16 -0000
Janet: More as I promised.
pH is the easiest horticultural parameter for the home gardener to
test for themselves. Additionally, pH adjustment the single greatest
contributor to producing superior plants of any type -- row crop,
vegetables, or flowers. This happens because soil pH affects the
availability of both primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, and
potassium) and micro nutrients (sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron,
manganese, boron, copper, zinc, and molybdenum). At pH 5 and below
they cannot be taken up in sufficient quantities to meet the plants
requirements. At pH 8.5 and above the same is true.
Meters accurate enough for garden purposes are available for about
$20 in many plant catalogs and discount stores. They are quite good.
You can easily test their accuracy testing a gallon jug of distilled
water from the grocery store. It should have a pH of 7. Another way
to measure pH is with hydreon (spelling ?) paper. It comes in small
rolls and changes to a specific color that is then compared to a
color chart. I sometime see it available in better garden catalogs. I
am currently using a product similar to this called BAKER-pHIX from
J. T. Baker Company in New Jersey. This product is individual paper
strips, color coded with test strips ultimately being compared to a
color chart.
As a practical matter, pH testing is necessary when you initially
prepare a bed, after you have amended it to adjust the pH level, and
when you see plants behaving poorly. It is best to prepare and amend
beds well in advance of planting in them. At least 2 weeks with more
time being better will allow the amendment you have used to react
with the soil. If you are trying to adjust existing beds you can
adjust them by top dressing and then deep tilling around the plants.
More on nutrients later,
Hope yawl ain't too cold up there. It was 85 degrees here today!
Bill Burleson
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