Milk Fed Iris (Long)


Linda's comment on Bernice Miller burying powdered milk under her iris brought back an experiment I was going to try about 30 or more years ago based on something I had read. I never got the opportunity to try it - but- I will  herewith supply the source and the information that tempted me. I make no comment as to the efficacy of the treatment so if you try it and it doesn't work - please "don't shoot the messenger!!" 

Iris Culture and Hybridizing for Everyone, Wilma Vallette, published 1961, pages 19-20 [Note: the information below was gleaned from the many iris Robins that Wilma both directed and was a member. That is the reason for the direct quotes.]

Newest way of all to feed iris is to use--skim milk! It sounds silly to speak of milk-fed iris, but reports from all over the country indicate that it really works, as all but a few noticed much improved growth and increase. Either dry milk can be used, or skim milk, diluted to the same amount. Dissolve one lb. dry milk in five quarts of water, then dilute each quart with two gallons more of water. Apply it once in the spring as soon as growth becomes active, again when the buds push out, and a third time shortly after blooming season is over, and perhaps again in late October. Use about a pint to an ordinary sized one-year clump, or more inproportion for larger ones. An agricultural brand of dried milk from the feed-store, the kind used for calves, costs about a third as much as milk from the grocer; even sweepings from a processing plant where dried milk is made will do, though each pound should be dissolved in a litle less water, according to how much of it is dirt instead of milk--the iris won't mind at all having a little dirt in their milk!  Used too often or too strong, milk-feeding may make such a lush growth that rot may set in, and to be sure it does not, it is a good idea to add two tbs. of some vertinary-brand powder form aureomycin to each gallon; the two together are said to give even better results than milk alone, with NO rot, ever.
Just why milk should be a good iris food is not clear. Once the fat is removed, calcium is the most important element left, and this organic calcium, in a form that is immediately available, may be the answer. Or perhaps, it is the phosphorus  present with the calcium (which in the body provides the anchorage for calcium, which cannot be used without it), ort perhaps milk may contain some essential trace-element. It is quite sure that any vitamins present would make no difference, as Vitamins A and D (the most important in milk) are removed with the cream, and also, A is present in all green plants, and D is the sunshine-vitamin, which the plant gets for itself. Or perhaps milk activates helpful soil bacteria. This may be why some noticed no beneficial results--their soil already had the right proportions of calciu  and phosphorus and the proper pH, and did not need changing. If so, presumably limy soils might benefit less than one slightly more acid. It has also been suggested that the milk provides a little extra nitrogen, as such increase could surely not be made without this element.
One report was of using milk-feeding after the big freeze "Down South" in the spring of 1955, on one bed but not another, of one-year plants, mostly of one rhizome each, that were "cooked almost to a mush by the freeze." It was applied immediately after the freeze, with a light feeding of a complete fertilizer on both beds about May 1. In two months time, the untreated bed had only ordinary increase; that on the milk-fed bed was "phenomenal." This same memember experimented also with milk alone, and with aureomycin, and was much in favor of using both together, since white milk alone gave large rhizomes and plenty of increase, there was a little rot, but by adding "aureo" gave even better growth and increase and no rot at all. "The two together seem to be an almost perfect diet for iris, she says."

I have had personal experience with the use of aureomycin. Back when I was still hybridizing, I would soak my seedlings in a solution of Rapid-Gro and aureomycin for a period of about 15 minutes. The seedling was planted with a 5 oz Dixie cup of the same solution, then fed and watered normally. The treated seedlings fared much better i.e. they grew faster, increased faster and were, indeed, healthier plants than the controls.

Dave Silverberg
Molalla, Oregon USA, zone 7/8ish 


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