Re: CULT: Nitrogen via horse manure


I'm in a very different climate/soil, so probably what I have to say
will be of no use to you, but here goes anyway:

< New to List - from the High Desert of Central Oregon - with a Zillion
                       questions!
                       1. The rows of iris I have in which was tilled a
small amount of old
                       horse manure appear much healthier than those
without; also used
                       alfalfa pellets, straw & triple superphosphate.
Other observations,
                       please!>

I have used raw horse manure (both horse poop without bedding scooped
from the field & mixed with sawdust bedding) as a mulch between rows of
irises with spectacular results. But that's more work than I can handle
these days.  New rows are layed out with a subsoiler (not tilled) to
encourage deep rooting, after killing vegetation with Roundup.  I always
try to add a handful or so of alfalfa pellets, ground dolomitic
limestone, & 6-12-12 or high phosphorus to planting holes for new
irises.
                      < 2.  In the High Desert we have excessive
heaving; I'm finding
                       shredded straw deters this, along with holding
moisture during the
                       hot periods of summer.  Any others with this
experience???>

See comments above about horse manure.  I used small leafy twigs and
branches to shade new plants from the summer sun last year with great
success.  Seeing how my irises responded to all the rain during bloom
season this year makes me think that they would benefit from some kind
of mulch on my gravelly soil.  I am thinking about it, but haven't come
up with anything that would be manageable in the tractor cultivated
rows.
                      < 3.  When rhizomes are `barely alive', would it
be beneficial to dig
                       and plant in pots?>

I find this to be of great benefit - they promptly die so I can throw
them away & use the space for something else <g>

                       <4.  Don't appear to have any leaf spot problems,
but do have
                       botrytis; not much `mush', just spongy/woody;
suggestions for sprays
                       and time of application appreciated.>

Definitely a question for another part of the country.

< Last but not least, after visiting the Willamette Valley, I was
                       feeling very discouraged (to the point of
planting more sagebrush!!),
                       but now, having read of others' disappointment
this year, I'll keep
                       hoping.>

Get out while you can, before you start hybridizing! <g>

Linda Mann east Tennessee USA zone 7/8






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