Re: Cold frames (was CULT: Thanksgiving seedlings)
- To: Multiple recipients of list <i*@rt66.com>
- Subject: Re: Cold frames (was CULT: Thanksgiving seedlings)
- From: E*@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 09:41:38 -0700 (MST)
Marte,
On cold frames in zone 4: first consideration here is that they are built to
handle the snow load. Second is wind - glass is always broken sooner or
later so a clear rigid plastic is best.
There are all sorts of plans to construct, I think one would be confused as
to just which is the best way to go. In my zone 4 garden, I have two large
frames. One is built against the barn for protection and faces south. The
other is free standing and receives shade in the afternoon (after trees leaf
out). The shadier frame is useful all summer for bringing along hosta and
other shade plants.
On perennial seeding, I find that plants started in the house and hardened
off outdoors are still not of a size to place in a garden. So to save the
indoor space for winter interest, I would plant all perennials in a frame.
They can remain in that place until you are quite ready to line them out
somewhere. BUT - in the north during the season when the frames become
active you must open them on sunny days and close in cold and windy weather.
If you travel during March-April-May and ignore the frames, you can cook
everything inside. If we need to be away we prop open the frames and throw a
tarp over them, it seems to work.
After May, we remove the clear plastic covers and leave the frames open where
they are still providing protection to plants in the frames throughout the
summer.
Other uses (our frames never have any space available) are for small plants
from cuttings not ready for open ground. Iris seed that germinates
sporadically can be planted in a frame along the sidewall with a marker. The
seed can stay there for a year or two and not disturb the rest of the frame.
Any sick or damaged plant will likely recover after a year in a frame.
Plants in containers here in the summer that die in winter in open ground
make it over in the the frames. That might be lavender, sages, a few
verbenas, artemesia 'Powis Castle', caryopteris, a beautiful varigated mint,
I bought a bunch of plants on a PA trip this fall when it was really cold
here and put them all in the frames till spring.
There are many, many uses for zone 4 frames, they multiply as you become
familiar with what can be done. Those great summer bulbs (acidanthera, for
instance) that green up here and never bloom in the short season can be
started in the frames and moved to the garden about 10" high and you will
will have August bloom.
Our frames are dug out to about 12 " below grade and filled with very good
soil. They are planted a few inches below grade because that is what seems
to work best. When we have a bit of frost in the open ground we fill them up
with oak leaves, return the covers and close up for the winter. In the
early days of March you see things happening in a cold frame, it is one more
dimension to the garden in the north.
This is, in part, anwer to the message pasted in below.
Claire Peplowski
East Nassau, New York
Zone 4 Berkshire area
From: MorJHALLECK@worldnet.att.net (Marte Halleck)
To: iris-l@rt66.com (Multiple recipients of list)
Gary, I would be interested in hearing about your making & using a cold
frame. My climate's a *whole* lot colder than yours year 'round but I'm
curious about any possible advantages to a perennials-from-seed-grower.
I don't know of anyone who uses a cold frame for flowering plants up
here. A few veggie gardeners use 'em for "winter" lettuces or for
jump-starting veggie seedlings in the spring -- ones sown indoors under
lights to begin with & then moved to a cold frame to bask in sunlight
while still receiving frost protection.
A major question I have is how MUCH protection is provided by a cold
frame -- *in my climate* would seeds germinate enough sooner within than
they would without to be worth the bother? Or would I be just as wise to
continue sowing seeds (particularly those that DON'T require any cold
stratification) indoors, then trotting seedling trays in & out to harden
them off?
A cold frame could help in the hardening-off process but I'd be worried
about cooking the seedlings in our intense sunlight -- keeping track &
opening & closing a cold frame to prevent this sounds like more trouble
than it's worth. (I know there are automatic gadgets to do this but
they're pricey, expecially if you need more than one cold frame to house
the quantity of seedlings I'm contemplating.)
All the literature seems orientated towards food-growers & how to extend
the season at both ends for annual crop plants. I can't find any info
indicating a cold frame could benefit a flower-grower -- perhaps because
there is no such benefit, except maybe for annuals?
Anyway, I'd love to see discussion on this subject from all who have
ideas &/or experience, especially in the Great White North.
Marte in the mtns Zone 4/Sunset 1 Colorado
Where's it's been snowing for about 6 hours but all in my family are
home safe after stuffing themselves with great food & delightful
conversation. Hope all in the US had a wonderful Thanksgiving & all
elsewhere had a wonderful day even if it wasn't a holiday. >>
