Re: Cutting down old drums


At 05:51 PM 1/17/2000 +1300, you wrote:
>"Richard F. Dufresne" wrote:

>Really? This would certainly help, but it is very difficult to remove
>the last traces of petroleum products this way, and exhaust /air/ could
>still lead to an explosive mixture, better to flush with an oxygen-free
>gas stream if at all possible (somebody suggested actual vehicle
>exhaust).

I think the real problem with auto exhaust is the high water content and
unburned hydrocarbons, which are acidic.  This might leave residues that
would start corrosion.  

Washing with water is usually unnecessary with solvent drums, especially
with those solvents that don't dissolve in water.  Any residues left by
these solvents won't dissolve in water, but will require a modest amount of
a more powerful solvent to remove them, such as dimethyl sulfoxide. If
possible, a visual inspection of the bottom of the drum interior should be
done. 

The only exception I know of to water treatment is with ethers, since these
may form explosive peroxide residues.  Water is added to minimize explosions
to containers sent out for disposal.  Also, all containers larger than 1 US
gallon are required to have two holes in them, at opposite ends, before they
can be safely deposited in a dump site.
>
>> do it.  The other way is to make sure the bung is at the lowest point, since
>> the vapors of solvents (including water) are all heavier than air.

If the air flush is done after noticeable solvent odor is gone, the
concentration of flammable vapors will be too low to be combustible or
explosive.  I do not recommend using a forced gas flush on drums that have a
strong vapor odor.  

If you have the water, aren't concerned with corrosion, and have removed all
noticeable solvent odor, you might try filling the drum full with water to
displace all gasses, then emptying and drying.

Perhaps someone with HAZMAT experience can comment.

Richard F. Dufresne
313 Spur Road
Greensboro, NC  27406
336-674-3105



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