RE: chlorosis
- Subject: RE: chlorosis
- From: &* <p*@comcast.net>
- Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 11:10:16 -0800
If your pH is 6-7, you do not need to add sulfur for the plants you mentioned. Were your soil basic, the chelated iron form you used may very well make the iron available anyway, which is the purpose of chelating iron. Basic means a pH of 8 or higher, and many plants have trouble absorbing iron at that pH. Is the soil quickly draining in this area? Sometimes nutrients just leach out if that is the case and need to be replenished with slow release fertilizers, mulches and compost. It can be tricky to figure out the real cause. It would be interesting to note the pattern of the chlorosis: e.g. is it the veins that are yellowing, the area between the veins, the edges of the plants, or the entire leaves? You may have to look at leaves that are just beginning to exhibit the symptom to detect the pattern, but it IS significant. It may also be just a case of competition if they are sharing the same root space. Karrie Reid
-----Original Message-----
Hello Nan
Thanks for your response.
In particular, the chlorotic Euphorbia was one that I transplanted from another area of the garden where it was not doing well. It had been in the ground about 5 years and was very sickly (because of too much shade I think) I moved it near to my other E.pulchirrima because that one (probably 20 years old) is doing very well in full sun . It really 'took' to this new site and put on a huge amount of growth last year but its not looking quite so good now as its somewhat yellow. I put the iron (liquid) on about 1 month ago and again 2 weeks ago.
We have two avocados and they are not fruiting yet ( too young ).One is lovely and green and the other has some typically chlorotic leaves ( yellow with green veins).
I'm not quite sure what you mean about 'basic' soil. Ph level is about 6-7 I think. Do you normally buy 'sulfur' in a garden centre?
Best wishes for a Happy New Year with lots of successful gardening!
Pamela
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