Re: Is there an answer??



Tony & Moira Ryan,
Wainuiomata,
Central New Zealand
----- Original Message ----- From: Pamela Steele


Thank you so much everyone.... I have been really delighted with all the very interesting replies and I have decided to 'take the bull by the horns'. I purchased a very healthy looking Cestrum elegans purpurea today and it had somewhat encircled roots but it looked well so I have teased out carefully some of the fine and uncircled a few of the bigger roots. I felt it was the right thing to do in this case. I threw in some blood and bone with the organomas and watered it well in ...so lets see.

Pamela
I do not grow Cestrums here as they are a bit too frost tender in my garden, but I have encountered them over the hill in Lower Hutt and this species at least is a tough no-nonsense type which should certainly cope easily with some root disturbance.

Regarding circling roots. One authority I read years ago recommended cutting these back to where they emerge from the root ball. Apparently it is very difficult to counteract circling once it has got going, no matter how one tries and root pruning on such forgiving plants as these will actually stimulate nice new growth out in a straight line so the last state of the plant is certainly better than the first. I have used this technique many times for both tough evergreens and also many deciduous shrubs and trees which had been left too long in their pots.and have been pleased with the results.

Occasionally here garden centres have tended to keep bare rooted plants (including roses) through the following summer by potting them up and then sell them the following year in the containers. I several times came across cases of this where the tree or bush had been planted without any attempt to sort out the cramped roots and almost always these plants look awful and grow poorly if at all. The only way to restore the situation is to take the plant out of the ground when dormant, shake off all the soil and sort out the roots properly, especially getting rid of any of those circlers. When replanted these tree usually grow away vigorously and give no further trouble.

Root pruning is of course commonly used on many container plants to stimulate new growth to avoid having to increase the pot size. The most drastic thing of this kind I ever attempted was to treat a very unhappy Cedrus deodar which was growing in a pretty minimal-sized urn and near to death from starvation. The owner wanted it left in this container for a particular effect, so I turned it out, cut off a strip of root all round the ball and put the tree back with a rich new helping of potting mix. For the next two seasons (after which I did not garden there any more) there was a remarkable improvement. The tree grew several inches and produced plenty of rich green needles. It seems such a procedure can be repeated if required every second or third year and maintain the effect for a very long time. It is I suppose somewhat akin to the Bonsai technique which I have seen but not myself practiced. Mind you, I would not myself chose such a large tree to miniaturize in this way. It seem akin to cruelty!

I also found a lovely Ocimum x basilicum purpureum?? (I think its that) ...has anyone experience of this in a Mediterranean climate? I found an article on it in one of the MGS journals today by chance.

I presume you are aware this is an annual. It can be raised yearly from spring-sown seed if you like or bought as a seedling..

Moira

Pamela


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-medit-plants@ucdavis.edu [o*@ucdavis.edu]On Behalf Of Francisco Javier de la Mota
Sent: 01 March 2008 21:05
To: Medit-Plants
Subject: Re: Is there an answer??


My explanation about rearranging the roots before planting is a general rule, and like with anyother rule, there are exceptions to it. I can't recall of any plant that I've killed because of messing with its roots, but I have seen lots of examples of declining trees and shrubs due to bad planting practices (including leaving the rootball intact). The one execption I can think of are palms, yuccas, agaves and such type of plants. Their finger-like roots are very prone to rot when injured, so I always leave those intact before planting. But again, as a general rule, in my climate, my soil and with the type of plant material usually available, I have better chance for success if I do rearrange the roots of cointainer-grown plants. This procedure usually means a little less growth the first years after planting if some roots need to be cut, but the plant will be happier and longer lived. As I always think when I am planting a tree or shrub and messing with its roots, "The pain now is part of the happiness then".

Fran
Madrid, Spain


----- Original Message ----- From: N Sterman
To: Carol Joynson
Cc: sunshine.works@gmail.com ; fdelamota@xerijardin.com ; Medit-Plants
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Is there an answer??


Some plants are notoriously sensitive to root disturbance, Carol. Two that come to mind right away are bougainvillea and Matilija poppy (Romneya sp).


It would be interesting to assemble a list of plants that we all know about as being sensitive to root disturbance. Anyone else have a contribution?


Nan




On Mar 1, 2008, at 11:09 AM, Carol Joynson wrote:


Actually, my point was not so much the heartbreak of poinsettias, but that there are plants that DON"T appreciate having their roots rearranged. My question to the assembled is: is this common enough to warrant doing a search on every plant, or is it relatively rare? And, does anyone know of a list somewhere: "Don't touch the roots of these plants!"?


On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 8:11 PM, N Sterman <TalkingPoints@plantsoup.com> wrote:

Those fancy poinsettias are so hybridized so far from the species that they are not bred to survive as garden plants. If you want to grow one as a garden plant, look for a species....


Nan


On Feb 28, 2008, at 1:51 PM, Cathe' wrote:


I have lost indoor poinsettias too. I don't understand their needs. I
had one outdoors in Caracus, Venezuela, and it was a bush about 6' wide by 8' tall. I hardly touched it and it loved the tropical climate.

When I lived in Chico CA, the previous owner planted 4 dogwoods, which never grew an inch while i lived there (4 years). They were supposedly 7 years old. Curious, I dug down, and I found giant roots circling the tree as if still in a container.

I have a really good luck with planting trees following the guidelines of University of California Davis which we have been taught as Master Gardeners. This is to pull the root out of the pot as suggested earlier. I always do this in a nursery Nursery people that complain do not receive my business. I make sure there are not circling roots strangling the plant/tree, and no J roots.

Once I have combed the tree roots in preparation to plant, I prune the roots that are brown (outside and inside) until I see nice white (brown on the outside and white inside).

Cathe'

On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 1:02 PM, Carol Joynson <carol.joynson@gmail.com> wrote:

All good advice and true, but how do you know who the spoilers are? I got lucky and looked up poinsettia on the web before I moved it from its Christmas pot to a bigger pot on the patio. The advice was "don't disturb the roots." I didn't, and the plant thrived so well that the next year I needed to move it to a bigger pot. At which point my brain broke down and I forgot all advice and spread the roots. Dead poinsettia. So - is there a rule of thumb for which roots to disturb, or is it individual research?



On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 11:38 AM, Francisco J. de la Mota <fdelamota@xerijardin.com> wrote:

Pamela,

Many nurseries (not all, but a good bunch of them) don't take good care of the root system of the plants they grow. Very often, plants are set too deep in de pot and the rootball is not disturbed when repoted, leading to a concentric web of spiralized eventually girdling roots. Talking about Spanish Garden Centers (where I assume you purchase your plants), very often a plant that is not sold right away will remain in the same pot for many years until it is finally sold. So.... Always check the roots of your plants before planting! I buy plants from all over Europe and the USA, and now (after poor results with some plants) I always wash of all the soil from plants that have been pot grown and cut away all the girdling/potentially girdling roots that have already developed. Then, I plant them in the new soil (no soil from the original pot added) and at the right depth. I do this with trees and shrubs. With perennials, I only loose the rootball.

Checking the root system before planting is something not than common in Spain for the average gardener yet. Besides, many "gardeners" here have had no training as gardeners at all... so false myths keep on rolling around, unfortunately.

Fran
Madrid, Spain

----- Original Message ----- From: Pamela Steele
To: Medit-Plants
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 7:47 PM
Subject: Is there an answer??


I have been given alot of conflicting advice regarding planting small trees and perennials from tubs over the past years and whether one should plant the root ball intact ('don't touch it'! I have been told) or tease out the roots gently. My (part time) gardener here in the Costa Blanca (not Spanish I hasten to add) says that I must not disturb the root ball. I ask this because I have had several plants die on me after 2 years ( Echium candicans, Leonotis leonoris as examples) and when I pulled up the plant the root ball was completely bound up, dried up and had not spread out. Both of these plants had 'sister' plants' planted at the same time and which are very successful. I have a watering system on all plants until established.

The conflicting advice to 'fan out the roots' when planting is very much of interest and I would be fascinated to hear opinions from the very experienced members of this group about this conundrum for me and would appreciate any other information that could be helpful.

I am thinking of planting a Papaya ( Paw Paw) this Spring.

Best wishes
Pamela

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